I think that’s a cricket?

We found the house without much trouble on Monday night around 9:30. After a few minutes of yelling his name, Raúl, the caretaker, appeared and came to open the gate. Also at the gate was a cute, if very skinny, dog who was eager to meet us. I have forgotten her name at the moment, but I’ll get back to you. She’s super sweet and I’m glad for her company.

Our vicious killer of a guard dog.

Raúl let us into the house and immediately my mind went into snap judgment mode, as I imagine (hope? selfishly, for the sake of making me normal, not because snap judgments are good) it does for most people when they arrive in a new place. The first thing I noticed were the very clean and shiny stone floors. Then the huge thatched roof. It feels like we live in a big tiki hut, honestly. Those were some of the positive parts.

As we continued exploring, I found both positive and negative elements. Or maybe I’ll just say positive and interesting. That’s a better way for me to handle it.

Interesting: outside of the fridge is quite rusted and gross looking. Positive: the inside looks clean and feels cold.

Positive: there is a desk and chair for Eric! Interesting: the seat of the chair is not parallel to the floor.

Positive: there are screens on the windows to keep bugs out. Interesting: It doesn’t really matter because various portions of the roof do not completely come together, leaving fairly large spaces for creatures to enter.

Interesting: The GIANT cricket on the wall just outside our bathroom. Positive: My husband is trained in the art of capturing these guys in towels and releasing them outside…so as to challenge them to re-enter via the roofline.

Positive: Salamanders/various lizards are not harmful. They’re not even gross. Interesting: They will scare the absolute hell out of you when they sneak up on you in the water closet.

Positive: Eric is willing to go after these with his patented towel method…at least until they hide behind the toilet.

Positive: I feel safe here. Interesting: Rusty barbed wire outside our window. This one isn’t actually so bad. I’m pretty used to seeing this around here. Doesn’t bother me.

See the rusty barbed wire just outside the window?

Positive: Really beautiful and fun tiki-style thatched roof. Interesting: No windows to open upstairs to allow for the amazing Punta Chame breezes to come through the 2nd floor. Positive: We have a 2nd floor. It’s pretty silly.

Positive: We have a stove and oven. Interesting: We have completely unlabeled knobs. How hot is the oven supposed to be for those potatoes? 425? Well, fun. I’m going to set it on plain white kinda far away from the dot. Positive: Eric is a good cook. Last night we had a lovely meal of rosemary potatoes and various fried things filled with meat. Man, did we miss our fried things filled with meat!

Eric was the first to have a go at the shower yesterday (Tuesday) morning. We had been told that we would have hot water, which was pretty special. We weren’t surprised to find out that it was one of those plastic contraptions stuck onto the pipe as it comes out of the wall…I’m not a plumber, I don’t know how to better describe it. Let’s just say it’s a fairly basic system. Not a problem…until the water just stops. Yes, we have hot water, but only for 2 minutes at a time. If Eric didn’t have time to finish his shower, I knew I was doomed.

Last night I gave it a try. I immediately realized that buying separate shampoo and conditioner had been a big mistake. It turns out that I can either wash my hair or my body, but not both in the same go. I’ll have to work on a solution to this one. Currently I have 12 hour old hair and the rest of me is freshly washed. Well, freshly washed with a thick coating of 100% deet.

If you didn’t know it before, you are now realizing that I am not an outdoorsy kind of girl. I desperately want to be. I grew up in Asheville and played in the woods every day when I was little. I love the idea of camping. I love hiking, as long as there are no bugs or spiderwebs. I love fresh air and quiet. I love that I cannot hear any cars right now and that the breeze blows through the [first floor of the] house in the evenings. But gosh, I do not like any kind of insects. I hate the feeling of grass on my wet feet (Mom, remember how I was never good with slip-n-slides on the front lawn?). I think my parents have photos of me on the beach with one foot in a bucket of water. Apparently I would wash the sand off of one foot, then switch feet, only to have to do it all over again. I like to think that maybe that made me an easy kid to keep busy. I was diligent at least.

And yes, this is a completely different type of experience from our last time in Panamá. I knew that coming in, and I am prepared to do some adapting. We’ll get to that part.

But first, the most unsettling thing by far…the smell of the toilet paper. Yep. Seriously.

What is evidently the most common brand of toilet paper in this country has an intensely strong smell. It’s not a bad smell. It’s a bit like baby powder and a bit like a cleaning product. The problem for me is that the smell is intricately intertwined with my month-long illness and week-long hospital stay in early 2015. More on that in a later post. For now I’ll just say that it brought back some terrifying memories and added unnecessary anxieties to this new experience. But, I’m making small changes to alleviate my anxieties. Don’t like the toilet paper? Get new toilet paper! Done. Think all the dishes are gross? Wash them all and clean out the drawers (*we don’t have a pantry or cabinets, just drawers).

So today, I am making a list of ways to work through my worries and anxieties about the house and being here in general. Here’s what I have so far. I’m sure I’ll add to the list as the days go by.

  1. Deal with one anxiety at a time.
  2. Blog your way through those anxieties. Find humor in the inconveniences. Or at least allow others to find humor in it.
  3. Clean one thing at a time.
  4. If the spoons look really disgusting, buy new spoons.
  5. Deal with bugs when you see them, not when you imagine them coming.
  6. Remember that you do NOT have c.diff. this time around. And even if you get it, we now know what to look for and how to handle it a lot more quickly.
  7. Locate the closest medical facilities, just to put your mind at ease.
  8. STAY HYDRATED.
  9. If the smell of the perfumed toilet paper reminds you of having c.diff., get new toilet paper.
  10. Accept that cleanliness is relative (i.e. clean + bug spray + sunscreen + whatever kind of dirt blows in through the windows = clean).
  11. When overwhelmed, stick your feet in the pool, pet the dog, and read a book.
  12. Don’t pee in a shower that doesn’t drain properly. The next day will not be awesome.

And now, a few more photos of the house. It’s a weird shape, so it’s hard to get your bearings with just pictures, but here goes:

This morning I was a little groggy from cold medicine when Eric left the bedroom to start his day. I picked my head up to see him go. He stopped abruptly and said, “I think that’s a cricket?” I went right back to sleep, but remembered his words later in the day and decided to ask about it. His response? “I mean, I think it was a cricket! I just think it was injured or something. So it was just laying there, flopping all silly.”

So there’s that.

In other news, Eric got his kite today! Very exciting! He hasn’t fully unfolded it yet, but it’s blue and a darker blue and kinda reddish. Photo coming soon. We went over to the kite school around 3:30 today and caught up with Itzick – “the Ab Master” – Millie, who is responsible for keeping the school running, and Nino, Eric’s adorable 20-something Austrian instructor.

Machete Kites

We went for a long walk along the beach, then headed up to the “Machete Swing Bar.” Calm down, it’s nothing kinky. It’s the outdoor bar at the kite school that has swings instead of seats. The temperature was perfect and the sun was starting to go down. Beautiful. We discovered something slightly unnerving – the bar no longer carries Balboa, Eric’s Panamanian beer of choice. It now carries only Quilmes, an Argentine (Argentinian? I’m never sure) beer. Luckily, it’s not so bad. Whew!

Real men drink beer on swings.

We walked down to the beach to watch the sunset. I’m not usually a sucker for sunsets on the beach. To me, most beachscapes are boring. There’s water, there’s sky. That’s it. But here, there are beautiful mountains across the water. There are brightly colored kites all over the sky. It’s always exactly the right temperature. There’s always a nice breeze. The instructors usually go out to kite, so you’re also watching a pretty spectacular show. Tonight Eric gestured for me to stand in front of him so he could wrap his arms around me. At the same time, we both sighed. Perfection.

The Journey South

We’re here! We made it to Punta Chame, 90 min southwest of Panama City (20 min as the crow flies). We have our rental car, we’re in the house, and I even made us a gourmet breakfast!

But let me back up a bit. We found out on Sunday night that our flight from RDU to Miami was delayed 75 min. We would be arriving in Miami at 9:43 and our flight to Panamá was scheduled to take off at 9:44. No bueno. This meant taking the next flight from Miami, arriving in Panamá at 4:00 pm. Perfect! That way we could get our rental car and get on the road by rush hour!!!

We began the day/night with 3:30 am wake-up call to ensure that American Airlines hadn’t suddenly found a well-rested crew in order to keep our flight on time, followed by a 45 min snooze (Eric in a whiny voice: “I can’t sleeeeep!”), then a 4:15 alarm, and 5 am departure for the airport. The first flight was BUMPY. And Eric was checking for the airsick bag in his seatback pocket by the time we were over Florida. Luckily, we landed (hard) with empty airsick bags and had 3 hours in Miami to recover.

The next flight was fairly uneventful, though it was on a smaller plane than we are used to. This change made the trip about 3.5 hours instead of maybe 2.5 or 2.75. Whatever, we made it.

Next step: car rental. I won’t bore you with the details, but suffice it to say that rental car insurance is expensive and a big pain in this country. I argued my way out of $500 worth of unnecessary insurance (which our credit card company already covered and which the sales guy tried to slip by us after I told him we didn’t want it), and we set off towards our Kia Picanto. Don’t get too jealous. Petey, as we’ve named him, is pretty rockin’. Unrelated question: can cars run on 2 cylinders?

We went to the home of the Uruguayan owners of our rental house next and spent a lovely 30 min or so with them signing final papers and giving them money. It never ceases to amaze me (wait for it, this is going to sound SO American and white) how many differences there are among each of the Latin American countries. I’m not particularly proud of that fact, but there it is. In just this short visit, we learned about mate (pronounced “mah-tay”), or yerba mate, a highly caffeinated tea-like beverage that is essential to Uruguayans and drunk in varying quantities by Argentinos, Bolivianos, and southern Brazilians. This guy was serious about his mate. He drank it from the traditional small gourd with a straw that looked like the stem of a pipe. He explained to us that you’ll usually see Uruguayans carrying a thermos of hot water under one arm and the gourd in that hand, so they do a lot of things one-handed.

Although the wife, Marcela, has been alternately communicating with me in Spanish and perfect English, the couple spoke only rapidfire Spanish to us. Eric kept up impressively well, although he noted that the husband’s slower, relaxed speech was easier to understand, at least until Marcela entered the room. I loved their accents and clarity of speech, although that could be due to their formality in our company in comparison to my capoeira friends.

**Sidenote: As I’m writing this, I am discovering more and more blog-worthy things about this house. Stay tuned. It will get more interesting.

We decided to delay our battle with traffic until after dinner and grocery shopping. We sat down at Habibi’s, a Lebanese restaurant that we regularly frequented last year. They have a nice outside patio, passable curry chicken, decent hummus, and a bi-weekly belly dancer. You know, the usual.

So we are seated next to a large tv. No sooner do we order when we saw this:

We were there in perfect time for tip-off! Crazy, huh? Now Eric, being the kind and loving man that he is, immediately offered to trade seats with me so I wouldn’t have to see Satan’s face (some of you call him Coach K…but those who do have simply not had the pleasure of a proper education by yours truly) during dinner. I declined and just sat in complete shock that a game being played not 20 min from where we had been that morning was on, over 1000 miles away. So bizarre.

Another strange thing at dinner was this:

I know it may look completely normal to many of you. Many of you are wrong. Green salads just don’t happen here in Panamá, as you may remember from last year’s blog. This is the most lettuce I’ve seen together on a plate in this country, ever. Super exciting.

I’ll spare you my whining about being dehydrated and actually shivering a little at dinner (Eric: “did you bring long sleeves?” Me: “I don’t understand.”) because I think I’m getting a cold and chances are I’ll wine whine about that later.

We had no trouble getting out of town and over the Bridge of the Americas, which leads west towards Punta Chame and eventually, Costa Rica. 90 min later we pulled up at the locked gate of our house for the next two months: Casa Ukaiki. Watch for our first impressions, surprises, uninvited visitors, and more photos in the next post.

 

Panamá is always a good idea!

Welp, if you haven’t heard, we’re heading back to Panamá! And this time it was ERIC’s idea – no, seriously.

If you paid attention in early 2016, you probably noticed that we spent a lot of time at the beach. A specific beach, actually, called Punta Chame. We first went there in January with Eric’s brother Ray and his wife Jennifer. Eric had been wanting to try kiteboarding for a while, and in Jennifer, he finally found a buddy who was also up for it. Five trips to the beach later, Eric was absolutely hooked on kiting and I was hooked on being a kiter’s wife. Long story a little shorter, Eric got kiting gear for Christmas and we’re looking forward to summer in January again!

Punta Chame is about 90 min from Panamá (the city) by car, but since it’s on a long peninsula, it’s much closer by water. You can see the city from the beach on a clear day. The population is about 400, and nearly all of the visitors go for the extreme sports, namely kiting. The biggest and most commercial thing in town is a sports resort called Nitro City. Aside from that, there are a couple of kiting schools, an adorable B&B run by a French couple (so there’s awesome food at their restaurant), a little hotel with a small restaurant, and a convenience store. That’s about it. Maybe 30 or 40 minutes away is the beach town of Coronado with its fancy resorts and beach houses, 3 grocery stores, and any other shopping or restaurants you’d want.

We’ve rented a house from January 23 through March 31 with enough room for visitors.  Just by a plane ticket and we’ll pick you up and give you a place to stay! The house appears to be about 2 km down the road from Machete Kites, Eric’s kite school. Eric has been in touch with the head of the school, Itzick, so he knows we’re coming back this year. We were also excited to learn that Eric’s former teacher Nino, an early 20’s guy from Austria, is already back for the season. It’ll be fun to already know a few folks. I’ve also talked to Itzick about working around the shop or at their little bar. He’s very laid back, as you might imagine, so he just told me, “we’ll find something for you to do.”

 

Eric will still be working – please dear God let the wifi be reliable – and I will be studying for a personal training test. When I left my civil rights litigation job in August of last year, I didn’t know what I wanted to do next. Actually, I still don’t know what I want to do. I have been interested recently in the idea of health coaching though, and getting certified as a personal trainer is the first step on that road. Will I actually ever work as a personal trainer? Highly doubt it. But if I’m still interested once I pass this test, I may go on to the health coach certification. I’m completely up in the air on this one, but I’m enjoying getting back into anatomy and physiology after years of being away from biology classes.

I’ve been working as a contract attorney for a document review firm since August. Unfortunately, their security precautions prevent me from being able to do that from home – or rental home, as the case may be. The nice thing is that I can easily take the time away for our trip.

I’ve been dealing with some pride issues since I left my litigation job. While I was really stressed out and rather depressed from all the horrible things that go on in the prison system, I was also very proud of my work. I enjoyed telling people what I did and spreading awareness (for whatever that’s worth) of my clients’ struggles. Now, the cases I work on are huge and corporate and not my own, so I don’t quite know where I fit. After 6+ years as an attorney, I am facing a question that many lawyers struggle with – do I actually want to practice law? I’ll let you know if/when I figure it out. In the meantime, I am very grateful for a flexible job that does not follow me home. I am incredibly blessed to make my own schedule to some degree, and to take off two months to follow my kiteboarding husband back to warmer weather. So while I battle my pride, I’m hoping to dive into studying and enjoy being a bartender – or whatever it is that Itzick comes up with for me.

We already have one visitor booked! Eric’s cousin David will be coming to stay with us in February. I encourage each of you to consider taking an impromptu trip to our little secluded beach (and Panamá City).

Eric's cousin, David, dressed as Dasher for the Christmas Eve murder mystery. There were 20 of us and everyone dressed up. Too funny!

Eric’s cousin, David, dressed as Dasher for the Christmas Eve murder mystery. David, I just wanted to use the most recent pic I had of you!  🙂