Back in Raleigh!

We’re back in Raleigh!  We’re currently living back in our old house downtown, but in one of the bottom apartments instead of in the whole upstairs like we used to.  We’re doing the minimalist thing while we search for a house, so it ain’t pretty, but we’re comfortable.  And Addie has finally calmed down and settled in, which is important.  The poor dog has gone from this house to Asheville (with my parents) to Panamá to Asheville to this house (but the wrong part of it – she keeps trying to go upstairs where she belongs) all in the past 16 months or so.  She’s a little confused.

Addie

She obviously suffered at the hands of my parents.

It’s been exciting to reconnect with friends and family over the past week.  We were able to hang out with Eric’s parents, brother and sister-in-law, and their kids on our first day back.  My parents came the second day.  We visited my sister and her family on the third day.  During the following days, Eric reconnected with his frisbee group, I visited my dear friend Becca and her 10 month old, we had sushi with DRay and Sarah – who are soon to be married! – and spent another evening reconnecting with my sister’s family.  It’s been a great week.

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Our 10 month old niece, Summer.

It’s been funny to see what cultural differences have made an impression on us.  I think the biggest thing I’ve noticed is that the grocery carts here are HUGE!  Panamá had two choices – a smaller and a larger size – but even the larger is no match for Kroger or Target’s carts.

 

And of course the driving has been different.  Although driving in Panamá is pretty intense, Eric and I both developed a deep appreciation for the mindset of drivers there.  Nearly every Panamanian driver pays close attention to the road at all times…because you kinda have to.  People don’t seem to get as angry with each other because they just expect that other folks are going to do crazy things – turn left from the right lane, ignore stop signs, turn a 2 lane road into a 3 lane, turn out in front of you, etc.  When you’re prepared for that, not only do you not get mad when it happens, but you start to do it too…which can be kinda fun.  I’ll miss it, for sure.  I’m a lot calmer and more attentive driver in Panamá.  Working on that one…

 

Another thing is my feeling of security.  I VERY rarely felt unsafe in Panamá.  I was cautious, of course, but I can’t remember a specific time when I felt nervous or worried about my safety.  Oddly, I think I felt more alike most of the folks there.  Or maybe I just didn’t notice the differences among others there because everyone was different from me…language, culture, color, everything.  Here, it’s easier to pick out the folks that I am alike and distinguish them from the folks that are different from me in smaller ways.  We share a language and a geographical background, so I focus in on the smaller details.  I’m not sure.  It’s a strange feeling and something I’m trying to work through as I’m writing this.  It makes me remember Panamá fondly, but also makes me realize how comfortable it is to be back.  I’m not sure if any of that makes sense…

Anyway, a couple of notes about the end of our Panamá adventure.

We went to our last Panamá fútbol game vs. Haiti…and WON!  We had lost the previous two games that we attended, so it was really cool to win our last one.  We got covered with celebratory flying beer, and loved it.  I also managed to get us two free tshirts from the group next to us, which came with an invitation to be in their group photos.  Fun!

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During our last weekend, a good part of the capoeira group gathered at our friend Auri’s place for a going away party.  Auri made arepas and empanadas – amazing – and Eric was happy.  Jessie also gave me a mug that says “Fula,” which is Panamanian for blondie.  Very sweet.

 

The next day, Eric and I took Lourdes just outside the city to her mom’s house so we could pick up her daughter Cari.  On the way back to the city, Lourdes began to feel really sick and had a lot of abdominal pain.  She insisted that she would be okay and just needed to go home, so we dropped her off, bought a few groceries for her, delivered them to her house, then left with a promise to check on her the next day.  Early the following morning, she texted me to let me know that she was heading to the emergency room because she had been sick all night and was still in a lot of pain.  I rushed out of the house, picked her up at work, and took her to the ER.  Luckily, she turned out to be fine – it was a gastrointestinal thing that they said could be cured by laying off the greasy food.  Hard to do in Panamá.

 

The night before we left, we tried a restaurant called Donde José in Casco Viejo.  Only 4 small tables plus 4 seats at the bar.  10 courses.  Pure amazingness.  Definitely competed with the Fearrington House Restaurant outside of Chapel Hill, which had previously been my favorite splurge restaurant.  The food was absolutely spectacular.  Interesting combinations, wonderful flavors, very creative.  And beautiful!  Look!

 

After dinner, our sweet friends Lourdes and Mono came over, as well as our British neighbor Elliott from upstairs.  As is always the case with them, we had a great time talking and laughing.  Elliott ended up staying until nearly 1…then left with plans to meet us at 6 am for the sunrise on the roof of our building.

 

5:55 am came and Eric and I actually got out of bed.  We banged on Elliott’s door on the way up…no answer.  We went up to the roof anyway, and it was just gorgeous.  We each made one last climb up to the very tip-top of the building, a place with one skinny wobbly handrail and a tilted inclined walk up to the point.  It’s scary, but the view is worth the climb.

 

Now that we’re back home, I have about a week and a half more before I return to my old job at North Carolina Prisoner Legal Services.  I’ll be doing civil work, which is what I was originally hired to do back in 2011.  It is also exactly what I want to be doing.  I’ll also be serving as our intake attorney, which means working with my dear friend Elizabeth, the paralegal with whom I worked on my big class action case for about 5 years.  I’m very excited.

 

Eric has his office set up at a folding table in the kitchen of our little apartment and seems happy enough for the time being.  His office is just a short walk from here, so he also has the option to actually put on pants and go in, should he chose to do so.  Kidding…he’s actually very good about hopping up, showering, putting on real clothes, and going into work mode at home.

 

Thanks so much for all of your support over the past year and a half.  It’s been an adventure, and we were so glad to have all of you checking in on us and following our story.

 

 

Carnavales!

We’ve done a lot of just living life here recently, hence the less frequent blog posts.  I did, however, fail to fill you in on Carnavales!  So here you go…

We decided to do it up right this year since I was sick and couldn’t do much last year at this time.  We ended up spending two nights in Las Tablas, a small town that is famous for having the biggest and most ridiculous Carnaval celebration.  It’s about a 3.5 hour drive from the city.

Map showing Las Tablas

We actually stayed in an even smaller town about 5 min from Las Tablas called Santo Domingo.  The thing is, you have to book hotels months and months in advance if you want to be in Las Tablas for Carnavales.  We did not.  But, we really lucked out.  We stayed at a nice B&B in a very clean room within walking distance of Santo Domingo’s town square.  Of course, this meant that we were listening to partying until all hours of the night…and to the drums that started up at 4 am and continued for a couple of house…but hey, all in the spirit of the celebration, right?  Meh…it was loud.  I’m old.

So when we got into town around 4 pm, we decided to head to Las Tablas and walk around to get a feel for things.  What we found was this:

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Amazingly disgusting.  I have never smelled smells like that before…or at least not that combination of smells and not at that intensity.  The gutters were completely filled with beer cans and trash.  We caught several people peeing behind houses or…you know…kinda wherever.  Actually, my friend Mahalia, when asked whether she was going to Las Tablas, responded that she preferred not to smell pee for 4 days straight.  Lovely.  But hey, what do you expect?  It’s a huge 4 day party!

So anyway, we arrived around 4 to find the streets pretty dead.  It turns out that people are out all morning and early afternoon, then go home from about 4 until 7 or 8 to rest and eat dinner.  Then they come out again and play drums all night right by the window of the place we stayed.  Okay, not really, but it was close.  We got the whole experience.

So one big thing about Carnavales in Panamá are the culecos.  As you might imagine, it’s pretty flippin’ hot during the day b/c 1) it’s Panamá and it’s always hot, and 2) it’s our summer right now.  So the towns will bring out huge trucks filled with water and hose down the crowd from time to time.  You’re supposed to expect to get wet…it’s just going to happen.  As we walked down the street that first day, we passed by a small house where an old (80’s at least) woman was spraying people with one of those noodle-looking pool toys that squirts out a ton of water.  Eric says he’d call it a water cannon.  But the best part was that since most people had gone home to rest, she just targeted this one poor guy who was obviously wasted, over it, and wanting to be home.  He was shocked and mad…and she cracked up!  We did too…as we made our way to the opposite side of the street.

On our first night, the town ran out of water.  Like, the whole town.  Apparently that happens when you spray down all of your residents and visitors all day long.  Luckily, the hostel where we stayed was able to get a water truck to refill their tank by maybe 11 am the next morning.  They also made arrangements with a woman down the road to feed us breakfast.  This is what the place looked like:

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Breakfast restaurant

It was great!  We had some chorizo and yuca and coffee while we chatted with a retired couple who had just moved down from somewhere in the midwest and an Australian couple.  It was interesting to hear their stories and experiences and share some of ours.  Listening to the American couple made me think of our first few weeks here and how much we’ve learned about the country and culture since then.  We also wondered why in the world they would move to Las Tablas, of all places, because it is such a small town and it’s neither on the beach nor in the mountains.  Kinda a stuck-in-the-middle kinda spot.  The Australian couple had been traveling for years.  Evidently they will spend several months to a year in one country, then move on to the next.  Colombia was next on their list.  Old hippie types…pretty cool.

So…the celebration.  We decided not to go back to Las Tablas, but rather to hang out in Santo Domingo.  This way we could easily go back and forth to the hotel for beverages and bathrooms and didn’t have to worry about driving or looking for a taxi.  It was still a huge party.  The floats were particularly impressive, as you can see above.

They also select a Queen from both Calle Arriba (roughly translated as “uptown”) and Calle Abajo (downtown), and each of those women (18-22ish years old) lead the parade of the Polleras, the traditional Panamanian dress that you can see in the photos below.  Maybe a hundred women, from tiny kids to elderly ladies, dressed up in their polleras (which can cost upwards of $60,000 if it’s intricate and you add in the cost of jewelry and shoes) and walked around the square while men played the drums.

We also had the opportunity to drive down to Playa Venao, which we had heard was beautiful.  We only stopped there for maybe 45 min.  It was pretty because it was in a little cove, but it wasn’t super amazing compared to some of the beaches in Panamá.  Still glad we went though.

 

Punta Chame 2 – More Kiteboarding!

First and foremost, my niece Laine turned 6 on February 1.  Happy Birthday Laine!  I was lucky enough to FaceTime with her both before and on her bday.  Here’s what happens when her parents leave us to have a conversation by ourselves:

And here’s one that show just how grown-up she is!  I’ve got to get home to my sweet nieces and nephew soon!  Being away from them has been the hardest part of being here.

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And one more from her birthday:

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Also, Addie turned 10 on Groundhog’s Day!  This is how she celebrated:

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Then Addie went to stay with our housekeeper for a few days.  Sadly, Eric is hooked on kiteboarding so I dutifully accompanied him to a gorgeous, peaceful, breezy beach in the middle of the week.  Again.

Seriously, if you wanna be happy for the rest of your life (yes Mom, I just sang the old song in my head), be in a couple where one of you is a kiteboarder.  Or a surfer.  Or a windsurfer.  Eric’s new hobby is the best thing to happen to me since capoeira.  After testing it out when we were in Punta Chame with Jennifer and Ray, he decided to invest in a package of lessons.  So there we were, back on the same beach two weeks later, only in a cheaper and nicer B&B with better food.  Sorry J-Ray.  We didn’t know.

Just like the last Punta Chame trip, we had a little photo shoot at sunset.

And took a few selfies:

When I was reviewing our photos, I found this.  What’s that right behind me?

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Oh right, it’s a guy flying through the air on his board.  Amazing.  These guys would get 20 feet out of the water and just float for a while.  Beautiful to watch.

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So, now for the interesting stuff.  Eric’s kiteboarding.  This week he had 6 hours of lessons – two hours per day on wednesday, thursday, and friday.  The first day, he got up and actually really boarded for the first time rather than just popping up and falling again.  He was so excited!  The second day, he started getting the hang of getting up, but needed to correct a few things on how he was flying the kite.  Today, on Day Three, he did some serious riding!  He was thrilled, and I couldn’t be more excited for him.  It’s so much fun to see him so into this.  I’m really glad he and Jennifer tried it out and that he went for the extra lessons.  I can see him enjoying this for a long time.  I actually just caught him looking at equipment prices online.  Apparently there’s decent kiting in Kitty Hawk…

One other update, we do not have the Zika virus yet.  We will keep you updated.

No, seriously though, no one we know has gotten it.  There’s an awful lot of hype in the news, but we’re not too worried.  There aren’t many mosquitos during the dry season anyway.