The time I wished I had married an exterminator.

We had a little bit of drama on Wednesday night. We got back from the beach around 7, as usual, after Eric’s nightly kiting session. Eric jumped into the shower. When I went upstairs to our bedroom a moment later, I saw a giant creature crawling around near Eric’s suitcase. It seriously looked like a mouse, but it was dark black and flatter. I screamed and ran to the bathroom to ask Eric to do something about it. He was, well, mid-shower and not exactly in a position to take care of the situation, so he asked me to breathe and see if I could keep an eye on it. I put on some shoes – heaven forbid this thing should crawl on my feet – and peered around the bedroom door. The thing jumped out at me – a GIANT cockroach. I screamed my best horror movie scream, not on purpose, but just because this thing was horrifying. It was at least 3-4 inches long and built like a freaking tank. It had to be an inch tall. I kept screaming, then started crying hysterically and shaking.

Eric got out of the shower and search the whole room for the thing, but never found it. That’s the worst part. I had no idea where it was going to come from next, but I was pretty sure that it would crawl around on me in bed that night.

I kept crying and shaking while I showered, while I got dressed, and while Eric calmly searched the room again and ushered me towards the door so we could go to dinner, as planned.

Y’all…I DO NOT do roaches. And I have never in my life seen one this size. We have lizards around the house to take care of the mosquitos, but this thing was 4 times the thickness of any of our lizards. All I could think about was how I wasn’t going to be able to sleep in our house that night, how we were going to have to leave Panamá and go back to my fully enclosed and insulated house, and how horrible I would feel asking Eric to go back home with me when I’m supposed to be supporting his awesome kiting hobby.

Luckily, my husband knows me. He suggested an anxiety pill and a glass of wine at dinner. I stopped crying by the time I got to the restaurant, thought I didn’t want to stop. We had a really nice dinner at the small hotel across the street that is owned by a lovely French couple – Casa Amarilla.

On the way home, Eric even offered to sleep in the car with me that night if that would make me feel safer. We ended up being fine back in our house, but y’all, that can’t happen again. It was awful. It’s official, I’m not supposed to live in Savannah or Florida or any place where the bugs are wider than my shoes. I’ve decided to embrace it. I’m an inside girl, unless wildlife can be kept at bay. I like outside, but I like the sun and trees and flowers and lakes and beaches part, not the creepy-crawlers.

I’m just really glad I hung up the phone with Laine, my 7 year old niece, before I freaked out. My sister Jennifer is considering bringing her down for a visit in March, and I don’t think my reaction would’ve gone over well with her.

On another weird wildlife note, our car got attacked by a pack of wild dogs today. We were on the way to town for a grocery store run, when two dogs appeared on the road ahead of us. Eric slowed down. Three more dogs appeared, barking and running towards our car. They immediately reminded me of hyenas and the Lion King. Eric slowly moved the car forward, but we heard a few bonks and bumps and both of us thought he might have run over one of them. Thank goodness all of them were safe…it had been them running into us rather than the other way around. What in the world?! So bizarre. Panamá always has a new surprise for us.

Tonight we’re expecting our good friends Mono (the head of my capoeira group), Lourdes (his wife), and their daughters Cari and baby Sereia, who is only 2 months old!

Two days after they leave, Eric’s cousin David arrives. The day after David leaves, we pick up our friend Sarah Jessica at the airport! It’s going to be an exciting few weeks!

Back in Raleigh!

We’re back in Raleigh!  We’re currently living back in our old house downtown, but in one of the bottom apartments instead of in the whole upstairs like we used to.  We’re doing the minimalist thing while we search for a house, so it ain’t pretty, but we’re comfortable.  And Addie has finally calmed down and settled in, which is important.  The poor dog has gone from this house to Asheville (with my parents) to Panamá to Asheville to this house (but the wrong part of it – she keeps trying to go upstairs where she belongs) all in the past 16 months or so.  She’s a little confused.

Addie

She obviously suffered at the hands of my parents.

It’s been exciting to reconnect with friends and family over the past week.  We were able to hang out with Eric’s parents, brother and sister-in-law, and their kids on our first day back.  My parents came the second day.  We visited my sister and her family on the third day.  During the following days, Eric reconnected with his frisbee group, I visited my dear friend Becca and her 10 month old, we had sushi with DRay and Sarah – who are soon to be married! – and spent another evening reconnecting with my sister’s family.  It’s been a great week.

Summer and Eric

Our 10 month old niece, Summer.

It’s been funny to see what cultural differences have made an impression on us.  I think the biggest thing I’ve noticed is that the grocery carts here are HUGE!  Panamá had two choices – a smaller and a larger size – but even the larger is no match for Kroger or Target’s carts.

 

And of course the driving has been different.  Although driving in Panamá is pretty intense, Eric and I both developed a deep appreciation for the mindset of drivers there.  Nearly every Panamanian driver pays close attention to the road at all times…because you kinda have to.  People don’t seem to get as angry with each other because they just expect that other folks are going to do crazy things – turn left from the right lane, ignore stop signs, turn a 2 lane road into a 3 lane, turn out in front of you, etc.  When you’re prepared for that, not only do you not get mad when it happens, but you start to do it too…which can be kinda fun.  I’ll miss it, for sure.  I’m a lot calmer and more attentive driver in Panamá.  Working on that one…

 

Another thing is my feeling of security.  I VERY rarely felt unsafe in Panamá.  I was cautious, of course, but I can’t remember a specific time when I felt nervous or worried about my safety.  Oddly, I think I felt more alike most of the folks there.  Or maybe I just didn’t notice the differences among others there because everyone was different from me…language, culture, color, everything.  Here, it’s easier to pick out the folks that I am alike and distinguish them from the folks that are different from me in smaller ways.  We share a language and a geographical background, so I focus in on the smaller details.  I’m not sure.  It’s a strange feeling and something I’m trying to work through as I’m writing this.  It makes me remember Panamá fondly, but also makes me realize how comfortable it is to be back.  I’m not sure if any of that makes sense…

Anyway, a couple of notes about the end of our Panamá adventure.

We went to our last Panamá fútbol game vs. Haiti…and WON!  We had lost the previous two games that we attended, so it was really cool to win our last one.  We got covered with celebratory flying beer, and loved it.  I also managed to get us two free tshirts from the group next to us, which came with an invitation to be in their group photos.  Fun!

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During our last weekend, a good part of the capoeira group gathered at our friend Auri’s place for a going away party.  Auri made arepas and empanadas – amazing – and Eric was happy.  Jessie also gave me a mug that says “Fula,” which is Panamanian for blondie.  Very sweet.

 

The next day, Eric and I took Lourdes just outside the city to her mom’s house so we could pick up her daughter Cari.  On the way back to the city, Lourdes began to feel really sick and had a lot of abdominal pain.  She insisted that she would be okay and just needed to go home, so we dropped her off, bought a few groceries for her, delivered them to her house, then left with a promise to check on her the next day.  Early the following morning, she texted me to let me know that she was heading to the emergency room because she had been sick all night and was still in a lot of pain.  I rushed out of the house, picked her up at work, and took her to the ER.  Luckily, she turned out to be fine – it was a gastrointestinal thing that they said could be cured by laying off the greasy food.  Hard to do in Panamá.

 

The night before we left, we tried a restaurant called Donde José in Casco Viejo.  Only 4 small tables plus 4 seats at the bar.  10 courses.  Pure amazingness.  Definitely competed with the Fearrington House Restaurant outside of Chapel Hill, which had previously been my favorite splurge restaurant.  The food was absolutely spectacular.  Interesting combinations, wonderful flavors, very creative.  And beautiful!  Look!

 

After dinner, our sweet friends Lourdes and Mono came over, as well as our British neighbor Elliott from upstairs.  As is always the case with them, we had a great time talking and laughing.  Elliott ended up staying until nearly 1…then left with plans to meet us at 6 am for the sunrise on the roof of our building.

 

5:55 am came and Eric and I actually got out of bed.  We banged on Elliott’s door on the way up…no answer.  We went up to the roof anyway, and it was just gorgeous.  We each made one last climb up to the very tip-top of the building, a place with one skinny wobbly handrail and a tilted inclined walk up to the point.  It’s scary, but the view is worth the climb.

 

Now that we’re back home, I have about a week and a half more before I return to my old job at North Carolina Prisoner Legal Services.  I’ll be doing civil work, which is what I was originally hired to do back in 2011.  It is also exactly what I want to be doing.  I’ll also be serving as our intake attorney, which means working with my dear friend Elizabeth, the paralegal with whom I worked on my big class action case for about 5 years.  I’m very excited.

 

Eric has his office set up at a folding table in the kitchen of our little apartment and seems happy enough for the time being.  His office is just a short walk from here, so he also has the option to actually put on pants and go in, should he chose to do so.  Kidding…he’s actually very good about hopping up, showering, putting on real clothes, and going into work mode at home.

 

Thanks so much for all of your support over the past year and a half.  It’s been an adventure, and we were so glad to have all of you checking in on us and following our story.

 

 

Fútbol in the Rain and Living the Family Circus Cartoon

On Tuesday (11/17 – I’m a little behind in writing) we had big plans to go to the Panamá v. Costa Rica fútbol game.  Now, I don’t understand how any of this works, but apparently this was a World Cup 2018 qualifying game.  Seems kinda silly to me given that we’re a few years out still, but what do I know.  If you can explain it to me, I’m all ears.  Samba?  Little David?  Eh, they’re not reading this, but I’ll give them a call.

So Mono was all excited and ready to start pre-gaming at 3 pm, but we had to wait until everyone got off work at 5.  Unfortunately, by that time, traffic was horrendous.  The worst I’ve ever seen it.  We manage to avoid traffic most of the time because we don’t have to drive to work.  Additionally, it had been pouring rain, so it was worse than usual.  Oh, and Mono’s car broke down earlier that day, so we had to pick him and Lourdes up on the way.  Terrible timing for them because they were trying to prepare both for our batizado (hosting international guests, putting on a show, logistics for everyone for two weeks) and their wedding!  We set out at 5:20 pm and the game started at 8:30 pm.  Here’s a map of where we had to go.

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It took us about an hour to go from our house (the southern-most stop on the map) to the next point up which is just about a km away.  Awful.  Poor Eric drove for a total of 3 hours before we got to the game.  We got there maybe 10 minutes before halftime.  Crazy!

I was planning on making this a more detailed story, but so much has happened since then, I’m feeling a little too overwhelmed to remember all the details!  The talking points of the night are as follows:

  • It continued to rain all night, but we had a blast anyway
  • TONS of Ticos (Costa Ricans) were there, and they were perfectly positioned in the upper deck so they could throw beer at us.  Fútbol fans make sense to me.  They love their teams with a fiery passion, and they aren’t quite sure how to act when things don’t go their way.  Does this remind anyone else of Carolina Basketball?  I think that’s why I felt such a strong urge to cheer hard for Panamá and why I took it a little personally when…
  • We lost.  2-1.  I have to say though, it was an incredible moment when we scored!  There’s nothing like it.  Sheer joy bursting out of 14,000 of your (at the moment) closest allies, everyone chanting, jumping up and down, throwing things, beer raining down from the Ticos above…it was awesome.

The next day, I lived out the quintessential Family Circus cartoon.

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I had offered the night before to help Mono run some errands for the batizado and the wedding since he didn’t have his car.  I was a little surprised though, when Lourdes texted me several times at 8:30 am.  As it turns out, Mono locked out of the house.  Across town.  And Lourdes had the keys at work.  So, I jumped up and, without showering or anything, left the house…not to return again until 4 pm.  Of course, I didn’t know that at the time.  Here’s what my/our route looked like throughout the day:

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I got to Lourdes’s work and found out the plans had changed.  She asked me to go further across town to a place called El Dorado so I could pick up their birth certificates and certificado de solteria (certificate of singleness – a required document to get married in Panamá apparently).  I was prepared for this to take approximately…forever.  Luckily, God decided to smile down on me in the little oficina del Tribunal Electoral that morning.  I was in and out in about 4 minutes…and I was absolutely sure that meant that something was wrong.  But I headed to Mono’s house (across a different part of town again – maybe a 20 min drive) at that point to pick him up, and he assured me that everything was in order.

From there, Mono drove.  Thank goodness.  We went from way up at the red pin on the map above (near Panamá Viejo) down to Avenida Central, right next to Casco Viejo for those of you who have visited…the furthest point south on the map.  We searched for t-shirts for the batizado in a few stores, found nothing, and decided to head back up to El Dorado (NWish part of the map – where I had picked up the birth certificates) for lunch and another tshirt shop.  We managed to get 40 tshirts, hopefully in the right sizes for everyone, and poor Mono insisted on carrying them to the car even though his back was still not in good shape.  Chivalrous to a fault, that one.

Once we got back to the car, our car alarm let me know that it had been a whole month or so since I had put fresh batteries in the clicker by proceeding to go off for a good 7 minutes.  Somehow Mono beat it into submission and we got the engine started.  We headed back to Lourdes’s work after that, I think, and that’s where I left him.

Long day with lots of driving and erranding, but I was grateful for the one-on-one time with my teacher and friend.

The next night, I had the privilege of seeing Los Monólogos de la Vagina with my energetic and adorable 19 year old friend Lucero.  It was a real treat to go with her for a million reasons:  she’s been a great friend to me and had the patience of a saint when I couldn’t understand her accent back when she moved here 6 months ago, she was really interested in seeing the show whereas Eric has NO desire to go with me…go figure, we hadn’t spent much one-on-one time together, and we’ve had some great conversations about sensitive topics in the past.

I wish I had written a whole post on the show that night.  It was incredible.  I wasn’t expecting for so much to have been changed to specifically speak to a Panamanian audience.  It’s not just that the names of Panamanian cities were thrown in, but rather that entire portions of the show were rewritten to take into consideration the importance of language.  One monologue, for example, essentially talks about reclaiming vulgar words for the female genitalia.  Of course, this whole portion of the show is dependent upon the audience’s use and understanding of particular words, and it was beautifully rewritten.  A variety of Panamanian accents were also used throughout the show for different characters – street slang, yeye (uppity rich people accent), and folks from the Interior, the Panamanian version of rednecks.

Overall, the show was very good, very funny, and very poignant.  Loved it.

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