Quick Batizado Update

Yesterday, Dec. 1, was the first official day of our Batizado…aka the event my capoeira group been working towards all year.  The main event consists of 4 days of classes and instruction, followed by a show and cord ceremony on Saturday, Dec. 5.  Things got going last Wednesday, however, when Contra Mestre Ivan and Contra Mestre Rodrigo got into town.  Since then, there has been some kind of practice, get-together, pool party, bbq, dancing…something…every day.  It’s been fun, but it’s been exhausting.  Lots of late nights, and that was before we even started working hard.

Yesterday we started training at 2 and didn’t take our afternoon break until at least 5:30.  At one point I stopped looking at the time because we weren’t going by our schedule and I was just plain sure it would never end.  The event is being held in a gym, which is nice because we have some facilities – bathrooms, water fountains, security for our stuff.  However, I miss practicing outside just under our little gazebo thing because the breeze makes a big difference.  It was really hot and stuffy in the gym yesterday.  And this girl does not do well in those conditions.  However, I made it through without feeling the need to vomit and without getting that awful yucky feeling you get when you’re about to die b/c you’re working out in crazy heat.  Praying that today will be day 2 of that.

We had three different classes with three different mestres between 2 and 5:30, each a little different, but each hard in their own way.  One mestre does not appear to believe in water breaks…so there’s that.

Here are a few pre-event photos:

And a few from yesterday – the calmer part of the day:

Music class near the end of the first day, before the closing roda.

Music class near the end of the first day, before the closing roda.

A quick visit with my long-lost cousin

My cousin Branson was in town from Nov. 20-28!  I hadn’t seen him in 8 years or so, so it was pretty exciting.  He’s looking towards retirement and wants to move somewhere in Central America.  Panamá was on his list of places to check out, so Eric and I gladly talked up our city and this beautiful country.  Unfortunately, his visit coincided with the beginning of my big capoeira event of the year, our batizado (literally translates as baptism, but it’s a big week of training and ends with a show and folks receiving their cords – like belts in karate), so we weren’t able to join him up in Bocas del Toro, near Costa Rica, for his diving trip.  We did, however, get the chance to take him to Casco Viejo where he treated us to a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called Grapes (super Panamanian sounding, right?).  We returned to Casco the next day to walk around a bit, show him the market and the views, to sit for a while with a nice smoothie for me, a beer for Eric, and a horrible energy drink for Branson, and to have lunch before dropping him off at the airport to head to Bocas.

After his trip, he came back for a lovely Thanksgiving dinner with us, complete with ginormous steaks.  Unfortunately, I was busy the entire following day taking photos for Mono and Lourdes’s wedding, so I didn’t get to go to the Canal with him or spend any time with him on Friday.  On Saturday morning, we stopped by his hotel for breakfast, then sadly, had to whisk him off to the airport to head home to Arizona.

Thanksgiving Dinner!!!

Thanksgiving Dinner!!!

I was really glad to be able to have some time with him, even if it was just for a few days.  It was also fun that he and Eric have very similar senses of humor, so they got along well.

Fútbol in the Rain and Living the Family Circus Cartoon

On Tuesday (11/17 – I’m a little behind in writing) we had big plans to go to the Panamá v. Costa Rica fútbol game.  Now, I don’t understand how any of this works, but apparently this was a World Cup 2018 qualifying game.  Seems kinda silly to me given that we’re a few years out still, but what do I know.  If you can explain it to me, I’m all ears.  Samba?  Little David?  Eh, they’re not reading this, but I’ll give them a call.

So Mono was all excited and ready to start pre-gaming at 3 pm, but we had to wait until everyone got off work at 5.  Unfortunately, by that time, traffic was horrendous.  The worst I’ve ever seen it.  We manage to avoid traffic most of the time because we don’t have to drive to work.  Additionally, it had been pouring rain, so it was worse than usual.  Oh, and Mono’s car broke down earlier that day, so we had to pick him and Lourdes up on the way.  Terrible timing for them because they were trying to prepare both for our batizado (hosting international guests, putting on a show, logistics for everyone for two weeks) and their wedding!  We set out at 5:20 pm and the game started at 8:30 pm.  Here’s a map of where we had to go.

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It took us about an hour to go from our house (the southern-most stop on the map) to the next point up which is just about a km away.  Awful.  Poor Eric drove for a total of 3 hours before we got to the game.  We got there maybe 10 minutes before halftime.  Crazy!

I was planning on making this a more detailed story, but so much has happened since then, I’m feeling a little too overwhelmed to remember all the details!  The talking points of the night are as follows:

  • It continued to rain all night, but we had a blast anyway
  • TONS of Ticos (Costa Ricans) were there, and they were perfectly positioned in the upper deck so they could throw beer at us.  Fútbol fans make sense to me.  They love their teams with a fiery passion, and they aren’t quite sure how to act when things don’t go their way.  Does this remind anyone else of Carolina Basketball?  I think that’s why I felt such a strong urge to cheer hard for Panamá and why I took it a little personally when…
  • We lost.  2-1.  I have to say though, it was an incredible moment when we scored!  There’s nothing like it.  Sheer joy bursting out of 14,000 of your (at the moment) closest allies, everyone chanting, jumping up and down, throwing things, beer raining down from the Ticos above…it was awesome.

The next day, I lived out the quintessential Family Circus cartoon.

family circus

I had offered the night before to help Mono run some errands for the batizado and the wedding since he didn’t have his car.  I was a little surprised though, when Lourdes texted me several times at 8:30 am.  As it turns out, Mono locked out of the house.  Across town.  And Lourdes had the keys at work.  So, I jumped up and, without showering or anything, left the house…not to return again until 4 pm.  Of course, I didn’t know that at the time.  Here’s what my/our route looked like throughout the day:

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I got to Lourdes’s work and found out the plans had changed.  She asked me to go further across town to a place called El Dorado so I could pick up their birth certificates and certificado de solteria (certificate of singleness – a required document to get married in Panamá apparently).  I was prepared for this to take approximately…forever.  Luckily, God decided to smile down on me in the little oficina del Tribunal Electoral that morning.  I was in and out in about 4 minutes…and I was absolutely sure that meant that something was wrong.  But I headed to Mono’s house (across a different part of town again – maybe a 20 min drive) at that point to pick him up, and he assured me that everything was in order.

From there, Mono drove.  Thank goodness.  We went from way up at the red pin on the map above (near Panamá Viejo) down to Avenida Central, right next to Casco Viejo for those of you who have visited…the furthest point south on the map.  We searched for t-shirts for the batizado in a few stores, found nothing, and decided to head back up to El Dorado (NWish part of the map – where I had picked up the birth certificates) for lunch and another tshirt shop.  We managed to get 40 tshirts, hopefully in the right sizes for everyone, and poor Mono insisted on carrying them to the car even though his back was still not in good shape.  Chivalrous to a fault, that one.

Once we got back to the car, our car alarm let me know that it had been a whole month or so since I had put fresh batteries in the clicker by proceeding to go off for a good 7 minutes.  Somehow Mono beat it into submission and we got the engine started.  We headed back to Lourdes’s work after that, I think, and that’s where I left him.

Long day with lots of driving and erranding, but I was grateful for the one-on-one time with my teacher and friend.

The next night, I had the privilege of seeing Los Monólogos de la Vagina with my energetic and adorable 19 year old friend Lucero.  It was a real treat to go with her for a million reasons:  she’s been a great friend to me and had the patience of a saint when I couldn’t understand her accent back when she moved here 6 months ago, she was really interested in seeing the show whereas Eric has NO desire to go with me…go figure, we hadn’t spent much one-on-one time together, and we’ve had some great conversations about sensitive topics in the past.

I wish I had written a whole post on the show that night.  It was incredible.  I wasn’t expecting for so much to have been changed to specifically speak to a Panamanian audience.  It’s not just that the names of Panamanian cities were thrown in, but rather that entire portions of the show were rewritten to take into consideration the importance of language.  One monologue, for example, essentially talks about reclaiming vulgar words for the female genitalia.  Of course, this whole portion of the show is dependent upon the audience’s use and understanding of particular words, and it was beautifully rewritten.  A variety of Panamanian accents were also used throughout the show for different characters – street slang, yeye (uppity rich people accent), and folks from the Interior, the Panamanian version of rednecks.

Overall, the show was very good, very funny, and very poignant.  Loved it.

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