1991 called…

First thing’s first.  Fanny packs are HUGE here.  And not for tourists.  For runners!  I’m not talking about the small pouches that hold a house key and maybe a dollar or two.  I’m talking about what you and your mom wore at Disney World at 1991.  Eric and I took a walk along the Cinta Costera (by the water) towards the Fish Market and Casco Viejo (the old city) one night earlier this week.  Eric had run down that way one morning – actually around 11 am when it was SUPER hot…not smart – and I wanted to see what was there.  Turns out there is a whole park with a clock made out of shrubs, a playground, paths everywhere, grassy areas, gazebo/tent things…it’s really pretty and modern looking.  Kinda Alice in Wonderland-y.  You can’t really tell much from these pictures, but here you go anyway…plus a few of the view looking back towards the rest of Avenida Balboa.

So back to the important stuff.  As we began walking home, I commented that I had seen more than a few fanny packs.  So we started keeping track.  I made rules – the tiny runner ones for just keys and whatever didn’t count, if you weren’t positive you saw it, it didn’t count – we were strict.  In the space of about 20 minutes, we saw a total of 17 fanny packs.  ALL on runners!  What do they keep in there?  Not water.  Not big enough or oddly shaped enough for a bottle.  How does that not bother them when they run?  I don’t even like it when my shorts don’t fit right.  I’m going to have to investigate further.  If anyone knows anything about this, please let me know.  I’ll let you know if I hear anything.

After that bit of fun news, I have to report the frustration of the week.  The next door neighbors got a puppy.  And I think they’re trying to crate train it.  The stupid thing has yipped ALL night long for the past five nights.  And everyone here keeps their windows open all the time because of the heat, so guess who hasn’t slept well in five nights?  It’s awful.  We’re getting used to the traffic noise, the car alarms, the sirens…but oh my gosh, the puppy.  They keep it in their kitchen, and those windows are right next to our bedroom windows.  Super fun.  I’ve composed neighborly letters in Spanish in my head all week long, but I can’t, for the life of me, figure out what good a letter would do.  Surely they’re aware that their dog is annoying.  Surely they’re aware that we can hear it.  What are they going to do?  I think we’ll just have to find earplugs and tough it out until we move out of here.

Meanwhile, I’m also composing my review of this apartment for AirBnb.com.  It helps me to deal with any imperfections I find.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s a fine place.  There are a lot of great things about it.  Eric thinks it’s great.  I admit that I’m spoiled in a lot of areas and that I’m having a hard time adjusting to certain things.  My internal review composition is a good coping mechanism for now.

Oh, and speaking of noises, there’s this odd one that we can’t figure out.  Nearly every day, we hear what sounds almost like a Muslim call to prayer. It only happens once a day though, and I imagine that if it were a call to prayer, it would happen five times a day.  Anyway, when it happens, we run to the window to try to see where it’s coming from.  I’ve only seen the source once, and it appears to be a guy in the back of a pickup truck with a big speaker.  He speaks quickly though and his voice is muddled, so I can’t even tell if he’s speaking Spanish or another language.  And…that’s the whole story.  I’ll let you know if that develops further.

Our Spanish teacher delayed the beginning of our lessons until Monday, so nothing to report there.  I finished reading the Magicians trilogy by Lev Grossman that I had started before we left.  It’s good.  Worth a read, I think, if you like Narnia and Harry Potter, but a grown-up version.  Not as epic, and no one will remember the name Grossman, but it’s entertaining.  Anyway, all that to say that I decided I should be reading a book in Spanish.  So I chose El León, La Bruja y El Ropero – The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.  I don’t think I ever finished the series when I was younger, and they’re easy enough reading that I can do pretty well in Spanish.  So far it’s challenging enough that I’m learning, but easy enough that I don’t hate picking it up.  I just feel like I’m reading any other book, only with a few more tricky words.

And one confession before I go…Eric asked me to play a nerdy Playstation game with him today.  One of those where there’s a whole story and half of it is almost like a movie, then you fight a few guys, then chose what the character says.  Anyway, for some reason, he wanted me to try to play, and it was raining, so I agreed.  I picked this magical Maleficent-type character and he showed me how you can customize how she looks.  I mean EVERY detail.  I spent 30 minutes changing her face and picking how far apart I wanted her eyes to be and whether she should have a double chin (seriously, you can’t make this stuff up), gave her horns, then named her Pearl.  What does this have to do with Panama?  Nothing.  I just thought y’all would get a kick out of it.  Happy husband, happy life?  Isn’t that how it goes?

Dumped Trump, conquered the bank, and back to church

I joined an online Expat group called InterNations before we left, and they have a pretty healthy chapter here in Panama.  We had planned to go to an event at Trump Tower on Friday night – over 130 people had RSVPed! – but Eric wasn’t feeling well, so we bailed.  We’ll make it over there at some point, and there will be other InterNations events.  I wondered, when we were thinking about going, what language do you use when you start conversations?  The website is all in English, but people post in Spanish sometimes, and everyone posts the languages they speak on their profile.  I guess you start in English and just see how it goes?  Or maybe you start in Spanish b/c you’re in Panama?  I’m not sure.  Sounds awkward.  I don’t do awkward well, although I’m doing a lot of it here.

I guess I managed to not write about my trip to the bank on Friday.  As an aside, I’m constantly afraid that I’m going to write about something twice, so please forgive me if I do.  I do actually sometimes go back and read what I write to make sure I don’t do that, but you never know.  Okay, aside over.  So I was super nervous about this trip to the bank.  Everyone had been saying that all these banks hate dealing with Americans b/c the US has made it such a pain for Panamanian banks to work with us b/c of whatever paperwork they have to do and blah, blah, blah.  But we really need to get a bank account.  So there’s some pressure on me.  And Eric’s frustrated, and rightly so, that I’ve put off going for a little while.  Oh, and PS, I have to manage all of this in Spanish.  And everyone has told me that Panamanians don’t care at all about customer service, so they’re usually not super nice about stuff like this.  Great.  I’m super excited about that cause I NEVER take it personally when people are mean or even lukewarm to me.

Well, as it turns out, the worst part was finding the stupid bank!  It was in the Albrook Mall, which is just a few stops down on Metro.  Unfortunately, once you get off Metro, you have to navigate the biggest mall in the whole world.  Pretty sure that’s accurate.  After about 25 minutes of wandering and getting more and more nervous and sweaty-palmed, I called Eric, told him I was at the Delfín (dolphin) and that I couldn’t find the hipopotamo (really?  you can figure that one out).  Did I explain earlier that the whole navigational system in this mall is based on sectors that are named based on the giant animal statute in the middle of that sector?  So the poor bank, this professional institution, has to say on its website that it is in the mall near the hippopotamus entrance.  Ridiculous.  So Eric guides me past the dolphin, the pinguino, the carousel in the food court, the rinosaurante or whatever, and finally, I see the hipopotamo…and the bank.

And this is where you find out that the story is pretty anticlimactic b/c the guy at the bank was completely nice.  Of course they allow Americans to open bank accounts!  My Spanish was pretty killer, if not completely grammatically correct, and we managed to talk through all of the requirements for us to get a bank account.  I was out of there in 10 minutes.

Iglesia – Parte 2

We went back to the same tiny presbyterian church yesterday.  Eric was frustrated with me for being a little late.  We showed up at the apartment at 3:06 or so instead of 3:00 when it was supposed to start.  The Lees, our new missionary friends, were already waiting in the lobby.  The first Panamanians, however, including one of the lay pastors, didn’t show up until 3:47.  The last of them to show up – the pastor who preached last week – got there at 4:12.  Eric was keeping careful watch over this…I suppose in preparation for next week.  The good news, I suppose, was that we had more than 6 of us there this week.  I think there was a total of 12, including the 18 month old who ran around, screamed, wiggled, laughed, cried, and whined through the whole thing.  Here are a few photos.

IMG_4173 IMG_4174

Michael Lee preached this week.  It was good to hear that even after all of his time in Costa Rica and Mexico, his Spanish wasn’t perfect.  Or maybe that was disheartening…I’m not sure.  Either way, I could certainly understand his sermon a lot better than last week’s because it was a lot slower.

After the sermon, I had a good little chat with a few of the women that I hadn’t met before.  One was a lawyer, and she explained a bit about how law school and practicing law worked in Panama.  The other women asked why Eric and I moved here and were glad to hear that our main reason for being here was for me to learn Spanish.  They were very encouraging, and I found their accents easier to understand than some.  Maybe they were just speaking slowly for me.  Either way, Eric noticed that things were going well and encouraged me when we left.

We’re supposed to have Bible study at another apartment nearby on Wednesday night.  The Panamanian pastor, Pablo, specifically said it would be from 7 to 8 pm.  I have no idea how to interpret that time.  It’s at an American’s apartment though, so I guess I’ll be there at 7 and we’ll see how it goes.  I’ll make sure to eat dinner beforehand though!

Dinner last night was at a Chinese place.  It’s always a little funny to eat one kind of non-US restaurant in a different country that’s not the US.  Is ethnic an okay word to use for food?  Or is that bad?  I specifically phrased that sentence so I didn’t use the word “ethnic” for food b/c I wasn’t sure.  That’s why it was such an awkward sentence.  Anyway, we ordered Chinese food in Spanish and actually did pretty well for ourselves.  Always good to discover a good Chinese restaurant in a new place.  Now if only we can find the cheap place near home that delivers…

Oh, so apparently I didn’t do a good job of following up about the bugs, and one friend said she was desperate to hear the end of that story.  We thought that the last I told you was the end of the story, but Diana, thanks a lot, I think you jinxed us.  We keep finding wings all over the bedroom floor, but no wormy bug things.  This worries me.  Today one wormy bug flew in through the window, so we took the half-busted vacuum cleaner to the window sill and tried to suck some of them out of the track where the window slides back and forth.  Eric almost let the whole vacuum slip out the window and down nine stories when a lizard popped up on the side of the wall and scared the crap out of him.

In short, the bug saga continues.  I’m ready to move to our new place.  Not that we have one yet, but the one I’m imagining doesn’t have flying worms.  Shocker.

Now, you didn’t ask for this, and it has nothing to do with Panama, but my niece Laine turns 5 on February 1 and had a ninja bday party this weekend.  It was apparently the most amazing thing ever, and I’m going to forever regret missing it.  It took place at a karate school of some kind called White Tiger, or something equally awesome.  There was a ninja demonstration, a lesson of some sort, some kicking and punching, a zipline, and Laine got to cut her cake with a sword.  For a girl who is completely obsessed with the TMNTs (Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles for those of you who aren’t children of the 80’s), it must’ve been heaven.  Indulge me by pretending to care about the following photos.

Huecos de Muerte and the Fancy Part of Town

Two main things to cover today.  We discovered on our very first night here that the sidewalk had a giant death hole in it.  Turns out they are all over the city.  We now refer to them as “Huecos de Muerte,” or Death Holes because I’m pretty sure some of them could kill you.  Seriously, some of them are big enough for the clown from the movie It to hide in.  Eek!  There is no texting and walking around here, which makes navigating on Google Maps tricky.  I’ve started pulling over to the side, checking my map, and then proceeding along my route.  I’m not taking any chances.  I’ve taken a few photos of some, but there are two problems with taking pictures of them.  First, taking a picture down into a hole doesn’t give you any idea of how deep it is.  Secondly, the worst ones tend to come out at night.  But for what they’re worth, here they are…

Eric en un Hueco de Muerte

Eric en un Hueco de Muerte

Hueco de Muerte

Hueco de Muerte

Hueco de Muerte

Hueco de Muerte

 

Last night we turned left instead of right down Avenida Balboa (northeast, I suppose), and headed towards the fancy part of town called Punta Pacífica.  That’s where Trump Tower is, along with all of these exclusive condo buildings, including The Point, which Wikipedia calls the tallest all residential building in the western hemisphere.  I guess if you break it down like that, you can have a tallest [insert specifics here] building anywhere.  Anyway, we hiked around all of the huge condo buildings until we got to the bottom of it.  I trust wiki.  It’s tall.  And I say that we hiked because this city has a lot more hills than you would imagine!  I was definitely out of breath when we got to the middle of the hill that led to The Point.  Strange since it’s right on the water.

Looking towards Punta Pacifica near the beginning of our walk.  The Point is the tall one all the way to the right.

Looking towards Punta Pacifica near the beginning of our walk. The Point is the tall one all the way to the right.


Punta Pacífica

Punta Pacífica

Towards Casco Viejo (the old city)

Towards Casco Viejo (the old city) with Punta Pacífica behind us.

Today was a business day.  Eric worked all day while I got some errands done.  I looked at an apartment and practiced my Spanish with the realtor, got copies of our passports and entrance stamps made and laminated, and checked out a Spanish language school.  It doesn’t sound like a lot, but when it’s all over the city, 90 degrees, no car, and all in Spanish, it makes for a long hot day.

Tomorrow we’ll get a tour of the Johns Hopkins affiliated hospital (kinda just because they offered), then head to the bank.  We have no idea whether they’ll allow us to open an account.  The States have made it a big pain for Panamanians to let Americans have accounts here, so a lot of banks just don’t want to mess with us.  Apparently it’s a lot of paperwork.  So we’ll go in armed with all kinds of IDs, 8 letters of recommendation from banks and other businesses, promises to give them our firstborn, slaughtered lambs, and the like, and we’ll see what happens.  If you think about it, please say a prayer.  We’d really like to be able to get some money down here.  It could make paying rent or buying a car or, well, a lot of things really difficult if we can’t open an account.  Oh, and if you have an extra prayer for my nerves, that’d be great.  If I’m already a pain because I get nervous and lose all my Spanish suddenly, that might not help us.  Hopefully the teller will speak slow, clear, non-Panamanian sounding Spanish.  Fingers crossed.

Thanks for keeping up with us!  We appreciate your support more than you know!  Love to all of you.