Batizado Day 2

Today was hard, but satisfying.  After the fact, you know?  It’s not like I was sweating it out in this sweltering gym and thinking the whole time about how wonderful it was to be pushing myself this hard.  No, a lot of the time I just thought about how it’d be embarrassing to puke.

So you get a better idea of how this works, there are probably 20-25 of us from Panamá, Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, and as of tomorrow, Miami.  There is one mestre – Mestre Barriga.  His name pretty much means Belly.  In case I haven’t touched on this before, everyone in capoeira has an apellido, a nickname.  Sometimes you get it when you do something stupid and people call you out on it, sometimes it has to do with how you look, like one friend who is named Irmão, or brother, because he looks a lot like our contra mestre.  Sometimes it has to do with your style of play.  My gringa friend Jessie was really good at Kung Fu before she started capoeira and she’s super smooth and quick, so they call her Ninja.  I’ll get my name at the end of this week!  Can’t wait to see what they’ll come up with for me!  I think I’m the only one without an apellido at the batizado…so I’m ready for it.

Here you can see my friend Árabe (left), CM Rodrigo (middle), and Mestre Barriga (right) at the Canal yesterday.  Of course, they played a little capoeira too while they were there, but my favorite of the photos they sent around was this one:

IMG_6884

Jogando capoeira at the Canal:

IMG_6897

So back to Day Two.  It’s just amazing how hot and suffocating the air is inside the gym.  There are some fans, but unless you’re standing right in front of them, they don’t do much.  My goal is usually to position myself in front of one when we start a class.  By dinnertime I was feeling pretty rough…mostly nauseous from the heat and exertion.  I made myself eat though, and laid down on the floor for 20 min or so.  I still wasn’t great for the rest of the day, but I made it.

After dinner, one of the things that we practiced are martelos.  Martelo literally means “hammer,” and according to wiki is defined generally as a kick with the instep with the most common target being the head.  CM Ivan decided that we needed to work on taking kicks, this time to the upper arm.  So…we paired up and began kicking the mess out of each other.  Not comfortable.  I worked with one of my Brazilian friends, Thaisa, which in hindsight may not have been the best choice.  The girl doesn’t mess around.  I definitely got some practice in.  I can take a hard kick.  And I have the giant bruise to show it.  I named it Thaisa.

IMG_6909

The most impressive duo during this exercise was definitely Mono and our German friend Noel.  You could hear their kicks land throughout the gym, over all the other kicks and talking and groaning.  Within 5 minutes of finishing the exercise, Noel’s arm was purple.  Mono posted this photo of his own shoulder last night.

12339182_10153663137510867_5543583378489246871_o

Continuing with injuries, I’ll give you the rest of the rundown.  Remember how I broke off a piece of bone in my finger a couple of months ago?  Well, I reinjured it yesterday.  Who knows if the piece broke off again or if it’s just jammed or what, but it’s swollen and I can’t get my rings on again.  Fun.

IMG_6896

I also managed to land on my kneecap pretty hard on Night One of the event.  I didn’t feel it much then because I was in the roda and playing against a guy who must be 6’6″…adrenaline kinda takes over…but the next morning I had some intense pain whenever I put any weight on it or touched it.  I knocked it a little yesterday and that didn’t help.  I can still walk fine and move it pretty well though, so…onward!  Funny thing about all these injuries – they’re ALWAYS on the left side.  Never fails.

Oh, and I think I got lied to by one of the contra mestres last night!  I had heard throughout the year that there is a certain toque, a certain rhythm, that you’re supposed to play on the berimbau if someone dies in the roda.  Of course, this dates back to when capoeira was used in serious combat, so you don’t get a lot of that these days.  I think there would be more CPR and 911 calling these days.  But anyway, the actual toque seems to be shrouded in a bit of mystery.  I asked CM Rodrigo about it yesterday and was surprised and excited when he was happy to share it with me.  I videoed it and shared it with a few others, thrilled that I had cracked into this secret world.  NOPE!  Turns out he showed me a fairly standard toque, but not one that I’m used to, so I didn’t know the difference.  Dang it!  The quest continues…

A few pics from the day:

I’m excited because Instrutora Rebelde, a woman from Miami, arrived early this morning.  I can’t wait to meet her after hearing about her all year.  Plus, she’ll be the one and only female instructor in the crowd.  She has quite a reputation, so I’m excited to see her in action!

IMG_6899

So if you’re reading this today or tomorrow, say a prayer for endurance, proper nutrition and hydration, and no puking.  Halfway there.

In closing, Summer is adorable and ready for Christmas!

 

Fútbol in the Rain and Living the Family Circus Cartoon

On Tuesday (11/17 – I’m a little behind in writing) we had big plans to go to the Panamá v. Costa Rica fútbol game.  Now, I don’t understand how any of this works, but apparently this was a World Cup 2018 qualifying game.  Seems kinda silly to me given that we’re a few years out still, but what do I know.  If you can explain it to me, I’m all ears.  Samba?  Little David?  Eh, they’re not reading this, but I’ll give them a call.

So Mono was all excited and ready to start pre-gaming at 3 pm, but we had to wait until everyone got off work at 5.  Unfortunately, by that time, traffic was horrendous.  The worst I’ve ever seen it.  We manage to avoid traffic most of the time because we don’t have to drive to work.  Additionally, it had been pouring rain, so it was worse than usual.  Oh, and Mono’s car broke down earlier that day, so we had to pick him and Lourdes up on the way.  Terrible timing for them because they were trying to prepare both for our batizado (hosting international guests, putting on a show, logistics for everyone for two weeks) and their wedding!  We set out at 5:20 pm and the game started at 8:30 pm.  Here’s a map of where we had to go.

Screen Shot 2015-11-19 at 12.14.07 PM

It took us about an hour to go from our house (the southern-most stop on the map) to the next point up which is just about a km away.  Awful.  Poor Eric drove for a total of 3 hours before we got to the game.  We got there maybe 10 minutes before halftime.  Crazy!

I was planning on making this a more detailed story, but so much has happened since then, I’m feeling a little too overwhelmed to remember all the details!  The talking points of the night are as follows:

  • It continued to rain all night, but we had a blast anyway
  • TONS of Ticos (Costa Ricans) were there, and they were perfectly positioned in the upper deck so they could throw beer at us.  Fútbol fans make sense to me.  They love their teams with a fiery passion, and they aren’t quite sure how to act when things don’t go their way.  Does this remind anyone else of Carolina Basketball?  I think that’s why I felt such a strong urge to cheer hard for Panamá and why I took it a little personally when…
  • We lost.  2-1.  I have to say though, it was an incredible moment when we scored!  There’s nothing like it.  Sheer joy bursting out of 14,000 of your (at the moment) closest allies, everyone chanting, jumping up and down, throwing things, beer raining down from the Ticos above…it was awesome.

The next day, I lived out the quintessential Family Circus cartoon.

family circus

I had offered the night before to help Mono run some errands for the batizado and the wedding since he didn’t have his car.  I was a little surprised though, when Lourdes texted me several times at 8:30 am.  As it turns out, Mono locked out of the house.  Across town.  And Lourdes had the keys at work.  So, I jumped up and, without showering or anything, left the house…not to return again until 4 pm.  Of course, I didn’t know that at the time.  Here’s what my/our route looked like throughout the day:

Screen Shot 2015-11-19 at 12.11.45 PM

I got to Lourdes’s work and found out the plans had changed.  She asked me to go further across town to a place called El Dorado so I could pick up their birth certificates and certificado de solteria (certificate of singleness – a required document to get married in Panamá apparently).  I was prepared for this to take approximately…forever.  Luckily, God decided to smile down on me in the little oficina del Tribunal Electoral that morning.  I was in and out in about 4 minutes…and I was absolutely sure that meant that something was wrong.  But I headed to Mono’s house (across a different part of town again – maybe a 20 min drive) at that point to pick him up, and he assured me that everything was in order.

From there, Mono drove.  Thank goodness.  We went from way up at the red pin on the map above (near Panamá Viejo) down to Avenida Central, right next to Casco Viejo for those of you who have visited…the furthest point south on the map.  We searched for t-shirts for the batizado in a few stores, found nothing, and decided to head back up to El Dorado (NWish part of the map – where I had picked up the birth certificates) for lunch and another tshirt shop.  We managed to get 40 tshirts, hopefully in the right sizes for everyone, and poor Mono insisted on carrying them to the car even though his back was still not in good shape.  Chivalrous to a fault, that one.

Once we got back to the car, our car alarm let me know that it had been a whole month or so since I had put fresh batteries in the clicker by proceeding to go off for a good 7 minutes.  Somehow Mono beat it into submission and we got the engine started.  We headed back to Lourdes’s work after that, I think, and that’s where I left him.

Long day with lots of driving and erranding, but I was grateful for the one-on-one time with my teacher and friend.

The next night, I had the privilege of seeing Los Monólogos de la Vagina with my energetic and adorable 19 year old friend Lucero.  It was a real treat to go with her for a million reasons:  she’s been a great friend to me and had the patience of a saint when I couldn’t understand her accent back when she moved here 6 months ago, she was really interested in seeing the show whereas Eric has NO desire to go with me…go figure, we hadn’t spent much one-on-one time together, and we’ve had some great conversations about sensitive topics in the past.

I wish I had written a whole post on the show that night.  It was incredible.  I wasn’t expecting for so much to have been changed to specifically speak to a Panamanian audience.  It’s not just that the names of Panamanian cities were thrown in, but rather that entire portions of the show were rewritten to take into consideration the importance of language.  One monologue, for example, essentially talks about reclaiming vulgar words for the female genitalia.  Of course, this whole portion of the show is dependent upon the audience’s use and understanding of particular words, and it was beautifully rewritten.  A variety of Panamanian accents were also used throughout the show for different characters – street slang, yeye (uppity rich people accent), and folks from the Interior, the Panamanian version of rednecks.

Overall, the show was very good, very funny, and very poignant.  Loved it.

IMG_6845

I Ain’t Fancy and A Hurt Monkey

Last Friday night I was invited to…well, I wasn’t quite sure, actually.  Sometimes between certain friends’ accents, slang, ambient noise, just plain being distracted, or not focusing all of my energy on understanding folks, I don’t get the whole story.  Ask Eric about that.  He can give you an example or ten.  It’s hard to be on all the time.

Anyway, I knew that my friend Auri had invited me to some event having to do with her daughter’s friend’s parents store and that it must be something fashion-related because she said she knew I was into stuff like that and we had recently been talking about Fashion Week.  My brilliant deductive reasoning skills told me that Eric would not be interested in going, and he happily stayed behind.

When I finally found the place, I realized it was the grand opening party for a formalwear store, and it was – in true Panamá fashion – rather over the top.  Everyone was dressed up.  There was a red carpet, complete with the backdrop thing that said the name of the store where everyone could take pictures.  Know what I mean? There was a reporter and camera from a fashion tv channel.  A photo booth and an open bar!  And I was…in a casual skirt, an untucked shirt, flats, and no makeup.  Awesome.  Oh, and Sonal…I didn’t have a clutch.  It was a normal sized bag with a strap.  You would’ve died.  You have no idea how many times I’ve said that since I’ve been here…”Sonal would kill me if she saw me here, wearing this, without a clutch!”

Anyway, once I ran into Auri’s daughter and she lead me to Auri, I found out that Auri was somehow involved with the runway show and would not be hanging out with me.  Still didn’t have all the details, but at least I understood that part.  Boo.  And ps, it was only 6:15.  Ugh.  I put on my best “I’m totally okay with being underdressed and alone” face, grabbed one of those uncomfortable stools at a hightop table that we all pretend we’re okay sitting at in a skirt and (at least for the rest of them) heels, and started my people-watching.

PS, for anyone planning a party, those stools suck.  If you want to move the stool, you have to get down off of it and move it, then climb back up.  It is neither easy to climb up or down in a skirt and/or heels.  Not cute, not ladylike, nothing.  Just not a good situation in general.  And as an added bonus, this one spun.  Oh, and just for fun-sies, the table spun too.  Thanks.

I eventually made a Venezuelan friend who turned out to also be a lawyer.  Very nice woman.  The runway show began just as I was about to give up and head home.  This new friend, Marling, and I watched it together and took turns commenting on the suits and the three well-chosen models.  Auri ended up being the mistress of ceremonies…although I don’t love that term…sounds impure.  She was all dressed up in a crazy J-Lo looking dress and an enormous amount of make-up, but she looked beautiful and did a great job.  She really appreciated me being there to support her, and when she told me that, it was all worth it.

I know y’all are getting sick of hearing about capoeira and seeing photos from rodas, so I’ll keep this one quick and only share a few pics.  This one was cool because it was at the Canal Administration building which looks like this:

IMG_2929

It was supposed to be a big one, with all the capoeiristas in the city invited.  Everyone seemed really excited about it on Facebook…but then only about 5 or 6 guys showed up outside of our group.  And they came 30-45 min late, when we were starting to get tired.  The problem with not having enough people in a roda is that you have to have some people playing instruments.  The people left over are the ones who play against each other.  You get pretty exhausted after only a minute or so because you’re going so hard, so – with any luck – someone cuts in for you after about that long to play with the person you’re playing with.  So that way, everyone usually plays against two different people, then goes back to the outside circle until they cut in again.  If there aren’t a lot of people, you have to cut in again pretty quickly…and don’t really get to catch your breath.  And meanwhile, you have to have 2-4 people playing berimbau, one playing a big drum, a few playing tambourine, and one playing this thing that looks like a double cowbell.

Anyway, it turned out fine, just not as big as the last time we did something like this.

The thing that didn’t go great though is when Mono got kicked (accidentally) in the kidney/back with someone’s heel.  It seemed like he might be okay for a minute.  I was actually about to cut in and play with him.  But then he left the roda and ended up facedown in the grass for a while.  After that, some folks helped him over to lay on the monument for a while.  He eventually was mostly carried to his car because he couldn’t walk.  Very scary and sad.  Horrible timing too with the batizado coming up very soon.  He has worked so hard all year for this, so we’re hoping for a quick and full recovery.

He managed to make it to work yesterday, and he’s heading to the Panamá/Costa Rica fútbol game with us tonight, so he’s doing a lot better.  Amazing how soccer cures most ills for this man.

I’ll leave you with a few gorgeous photos from our upstairs neighbors, Stella and Elliott.