Visit from my parents

My folks got to Panama on Sunday night around 9:30.  It’s been pretty exciting to have them here after telling them about our lives here for so long.  They are also our first visitors in this apartment.

On Monday, my Mom joined me for a field trip with my Spanish teacher, Marianela, to a street called Avenida Central which is the closest thing I’ve seen to a market since we’ve been here.  It is closed to traffic, and people sell fruits and vegetables in the street, along with – at this time of year – a fruit cake type bread called pan bon.

Mom buying pan bon.

Mom buying pan bon.

 

Fruits and veggies

Fruits and veggies

It was fun to have an outing and to have Mom along instead of Marianela and I just staring at each other for 4 hours straight.  Here’s what Marianela looks like:

Marianela and I on Avenida Central

Marianela and I on Avenida Central

There are also…I guess department stores?…along the street too.  Old stores with clothes that TJ Maxx probably wouldn’t take, but Marianela tells me that occasionally you can find name brand stuff for $10 or so.  Then there were the furniture stores own by the Spanish folks, and apparently people of each nationality owns a particular kind of store.  Interesting.  She spends so much time telling me that Panamanians aren’t racist, but then she also tells me not to eat in restaurants in that area run by Chinese people because they are dirty (the restaurants, not the people).  Race is a very funny thing down here.  I would be interested to read an American student’s thesis on the subject of race and racism in Panamá.  Okay, I’ll be honest, I wouldn’t want to read it.  I might want a brief summary of it though, and perhaps a 45 minute conversation about it.

We went down this street called SalSiPuedes (Sal Si Puedes, meaning Leave if you Can) where kids apparently can get everything they need for school.  The way Marianela described it for me, I was expecting Diagon Alley.  If you don’t get that reference, please call me immediately because your life is not yet complete.  I was a little concerned at first because of the name since it sounds kinda shady.  Should I be worried that I won’t be able to leave?  No, no.  It’s just a really really skinny street, and that’s why they call it that.  A few pictures of it:

We capped off the afternoon with a visit to Café Coca-Cola for pineapple batidos (smoothies/milkshakes).  It’s said to be the oldest café in Panamá (the city), established in 1875, and has had famous visitors like Che Guevara.  Back in the day, only men were allowed, as it was a place where they discussed politics and sports.  As we sat and talked, I kept catching Marianela eyeing a group of old men in the corner.  She told us that they were doing just that – talking sports and politics, just like in the old days.  She surprised us, however, by saying that the sport they were discussing was not futbol, but rather baseball!  Apparently Panamanians are really good at baseball.

In Café Coca-Cola with my Mom.

In Café Coca-Cola with my Mom.

Cafe Coca-cola

 

Anything having to do with Coca-Cola down here is special for me and for my family because my Great Uncle Bill Solms, my favorite for several reasons, one of which was because he reminded me so much of his brother, my grandfather, who passed away when I was 7, was the President of Coke for Latin America (family – correct me if I’m getting this wrong) for several years several decades ago.  He and his family lived in Mexico City, and I enjoyed speaking Spanish with him when I visited with him and his wife.

Yesterday, Mom, Dad, and I went to Casco Viejo (the old city – was run down, but now everyone is investing a lot in it and it’s become really cool and beautiful and hip – if the kids use that word anymore).

Mom in Casco Viejo

Mom in Casco Viejo

 

Ruins in Casco Viejo.  I love the stairs and how they look like they're floating.  Mom said they looked like they were out of Harry Potter and were going to move at any moment.

Ruins in Casco Viejo. I love the stairs and how they look like they’re floating. Mom said they looked like they were out of Harry Potter and were going to move at any moment.

See the description in the next photo.  Basically, this arch is one of the reasons they decided to build the Canal in Panama instead of in Nicaragua.

See the description in the next photo. Basically, this arch is one of the reasons they decided to build the Canal in Panama instead of in Nicaragua.

IMG_4714

 

The highlight was when my folks discovered an artist who said he had been painting watercolors out there for 40 years.  They liked his work and we talked to him for a while about it, about his life, and about which paintings were his favorites.  He was super cute and we had a great time talking to him.  I translated a bit, but my mom also speaks some Spanish, so she enjoyed talking to him as well.  The guy played all the games, proclaimed that it was his birthday and he had to go home soon to have his traditional chicken and rice, said he’d give us a special price, told us that our favorite was his favorite too…he’s done this before.  But he was good at it.  At the end of it, he went from $45 + $35 +$35 for three paintings to a total of $50 for all three.  In hindsight, I’m sure we could’ve done better, but I was just playing translator.  My folks were happy, the guy was happy…no harm done.

The best part was when Mom asked him to write his name on the back of one of them for her.  He wrote it and then wrote the date…but had to verify the date with us.  It was then that we began to question whether it really was his birthday…

Dad wanted a photo with him:

My parents with the artist who painted the watercolors that they bought in Casco Viejo.

My parents with the artist who painted the watercolors that they bought in Casco Viejo.

My parents with the artist who painted the watercolors that they bought in Casco Viejo.

My parents with the artist who painted the watercolors that they bought in Casco Viejo.

Today, Eric went with them on a tour of Lake Gatún – a lake in the middle of the Canal.  They kayaked and fed grapes to monkeys and saw big ships.  Same tour that Katie did – mostly due to Katie’s recommendation and because she was kind enough to show my parents her photos when Katie watched Addie for a weekend last month.  A guest blog posting from my parents might be forthcoming with some of those photos.  At the very least, I’ll have a photo of Eric holding a very very tiny crocodile.  It’s hilarious.

Birthdays!

So last weekend (Saturday, March 21) was my birthday.  At the last minute, I decided to be brave and invite over the capoeira group – who I barely know, but who are my best friends in Panama – for drinks and snacks at our apartment.  We live right near where we practice, so I didn’t think it would be inconvenient for folks.  It was an odd thing.  I had no idea what sort of get-togethers this group usually had.  Do they get together at people’s houses?  Do they go out usually?  Do they drink or are they the super dedicated to their health types?  How much food should I have prepared?  Who will come?  Are they going to feel obligated to come but not really want to?  Am I enough a part of the group to invite them?  So many questions!  I was pretty nervous.

The plan was for me to go to Capoeira practice from 4-6 and then for folks to come over after that.  Only 7 people made it out that day, but that was fine by me.  Why, you ask?  Because I found out that it is tradition on a capoerista’s birthday for there to be a roda and for the birthday person to play capoeira with everyone in the roda.  In case you’re wondering, I still know next to nothing.  I have no moves.  I don’t look cool doing this stuff.  I have no stamina.  So as each person got out into the roda with me, I was just trying to throw a few kicks, ginga a little, and breathe until the whole thing was over.  Yes, it was really nice to have this honor, but gosh, I had no idea what I was doing.  Awesome.

After practice, everyone looked like they were pretty much giving their regrets and heading home.  Everyone, that is, accept Moisés, my buddy who was the guy to help me out in the first roda on my first day of practice.  He told me he was going to shower and come over later.

I texted Moi a bit later to let him know that, as far as I knew, he was the only one coming over, and of course he was still welcome, but I didn’t want him to feel obligated.  Eric had suggested this b/c he knew how weird he would feel walking into a house for a birthday party for someone he didn’t know well and finding out he was the only guest.  Yikes.  Anyway, about two hours after we expected him to show up, he came…with three other guys!  Yay!

We ended up hanging out, mostly on the balcony, until almost 1 am.  For them, probably not too late, but for us, that was probably the latest (non-hospital) night that we’ve had since we’ve been here.  It was a lot of fun.  Once Eric had a couple of drinks, he loosened up enough to speak some Spanish, and most of the guys understood at least a little English, so he was able to communicate with them too.  Here’s the group:

George, Dario, Me, Moi, Antonio (Árabe)

George, Dario, Me, Moi, Antonio (Árabe)

I was really happy that they came, and very glad that Eric was gracious enough to help me host some folks that he didn’t understand completely.  It was a wonderful birthday.

Oh, Eric also made some tortillas de maíz for us – these wonderful little fried corn cake things – and one of the Panamanians complimented him on his frying talent.  Someone decided that putting salsa on them was a good idea, although I prefer to eat them plain.

Tortilla de maíz

The Tuesday following my birthday, March 24th, I went to capoeira practice and my new friend Lourdes and her fiancé Mono (well, his real name is David, but his capoeira name is Mono, or Monkey) surprised me with a birthday present!  Completely unexpected and unnecessary, but very very sweet.  Here’s what they gave me:

Regalo de Lourdes y Mono

At the end of practice, Mono called everyone together and he presented me with the official CDO (Cordao de Ouro – the name of our group) Panamá shirt!  I was really honored.  It made me feel like I’m officially a part of the group.  Here’s what it looks like…not that y’all care, but this was a big deal for me.

IMG_4606 IMG_4607

So, skipping forward a bit…yesterday, Sunday, Eric and I went to Juan Pablo’s house (another Capoeira friend…we don’t know anyone besides these folks) for his birthday party.  He lives with his folks still in this house at the top of this hill that has a great view of the Bridge of the Americas, which is over part of the Canal.  The directions to get there were ridiculous.  He basically dropped a pin on a Google Map when he was home and sent it to us via WhatsApp, then sent us verbal directions via WhatsApp, along with photos of landmarks along the way.  All of this, mind you, is because addresses do not exist in this silly country.  We still had to guess quite a bit about where we were going.  I said things along the way like, “yes, I think that looks like the tree from the picture.  See how that branch looks like this one?”  Seriously.  That’s how it went.  Ridiculous.  But we made it.

And it was so much fun!  Everyone was outside, and luckily it was shady and breezy enough to be comfortable.  There was a grill area that was covered and that’s where all the food and drinks were set up.  All of the capoeira folks were there, along with a few of Juan Pablo’s friends from school, plus lots of family members.  We spent a lot of time getting to know a Brazilian couple who happens to live in the building right next to us.  We figured this out because the woman, Jessica, posted this photo on Facebook one day:

Rainy day in Panama 3.20.15

I saw it and thought “wow!  That’s almost like our view!  She must live nearby!”  So I went out to our balcony and tried to compare our view to hers to see where she lived.  Here’s the photo from the same day, but a few hours later, from our balcony:

From our balcony

So I figured out that they were to the left of us and not up as high.  I didn’t want to post the photo on Facebook or say anything at that point though b/c we hadn’t talked much yet and I didn’t want to seem creepy.  I told her and her husband all of this on Sunday and they thought it was hilarious.  I’m hoping we’ll get to hang out with them more.  They seemed like fun.

In the middle of the party, we had a roda for Juan Pablo.  It was a tiny little area that we had, so it was pretty intense and a few folks fell over on the brick grill area.  Looked painful.  I wasn’t sorry that I was in a dress and heels.  I just played the tambourine and the double cowbell-looking thing and clapped and enjoyed watching.  A few photos from the day:

 

And lastly, a random photo of Juan Pablo upside-down on a beach somewhere that he shared with us.  Pretty cool.

IMG_4611

My parents are here this week, so we’ll see whether I have time to share photos a little at a time or whether it’s one long post after they leave…

Friday night’s Capoeira presentation, Saturday date night

There was some kind of big commerce exposition at the convention center nearby at the end of last week, and the capoeira group – CDO Panama, short for Cordao de Ouro, cord of gold, I believe – performed there.  We got there right at 8 when it was supposed to start, but things were running late, so we had the pleasure of seeing acts from other countries.

We saw a little of this:

Chinese fashion show

Chinese fashion show

 

a little of this:

Dances from another part of Panamá

Dances from another part of Panamá

and also this guy, who was Eric’s favorite:

He was probably all of 10 years old, and his buddy, wearing the same costume of pajamas and a big dragon head, was probably 5.

He was probably all of 10 years old, and his buddy, wearing the same costume of pajamas and a big dragon head, was probably 5.

I happened to sit down next to the girlfriend of one of the guys in CDO, so I got to chat with her, Ana, a little.  Finally, the capoeira performance began.  I didn’t know how the photography was going to go since I couldn’t really just stand in front of everyone for the best view, there were huge speakers on the front of the stage blocking half of the good moves, it was dark, they were moving fast, and there was a huge lit-up screen behind them.  None of these are elements that I’ve ever known how to deal with before.  Luckily Eric coached me through all of this during the other acts, so I was decently prepared (compared to how I would’ve been otherwise) by the time they went on.

I ended up taking almost 400 photos of their maybe 8-12 minute performance!  Don’t worry, I’ve paired it down quite a bit for y’all.  Here are a few of my favorites.  The white girl flying through the air is Jessie, the one I said is from the DC area originally.  The guy with the braids/dreads (and doing the crazy handstand) is the leader of the group.  His nickname is Mono, or monkey (again, racial issues are different here), and he is engaged to the beautiful girl playing the drum and singing.  The other guy flying through the air is Juan Pablo, the boyfriend of Ana, the girl I was sitting with as we watched this.  In case you care about all of these relationships.  🙂  The one playing the tambourine is the one who I think is named Moíses and who was with me in the roda for my first time.

Incredible, huh?  I talked to a few of them afterwards and was greeted with hugs and besos.  All of them seemed glad that I had come and were excited that I had taken pictures.  Mono added me to their facebook group today, so I’ve posted a few of the photos for them.

So – changing gears – for Christmas I gave Eric a scrapbook type thing full of date ideas for us for 2015.  At the point when I made it, I wasn’t sure if we would be in Raleigh or in Panama b/c of CB, so it has ideas for both places.  Last night we tried out our first official date from the book.  We went to a restaurant called Market.  You can check it out here.  It pretty much caters to Americans, but it’s known for having really great steaks and hamburgers.  It is owned by this one restaurant group that has three restaurants in the area that are all supposed to be really good – kinda an Ashley Christensen kinda thing for you Raleighites (Raleighians?).

I had the corvina (typical Panamanian fish) and yuca and it was AMAZING.  Best food I’ve had in months.  Doesn’t it look delicious!?

A-MAZ-ING!

A-MAZ-ING!

Here are a few other pictures from our night out:

Of course after not being able to watch the three previous games of the ACC Tourney, the Heels wolfpacked all over themselves when I did get to watch.  I take full responsibility for the loss.  Ugh.  Notre Dame?  Really?  Better than some others, I guess, but jeez.  I still am learning to accept Miami and Virginia Tech into the ACC.  The Irish are too much.

This morning I interviewed a potential empleada and we really liked her.  She wants full time work, but we don’t need it, so we offered to let her start here knowing that she’d be looking for full time work elsewhere.  Since we have the windows open all the time, EVERYTHING is covered with dust and dirt.  It gets really gross really quickly.  Eric learned his lesson about walking around barefoot yesterday when his feet were black after about 30 minutes.  We couldn’t tell if his feet were making the floor dirtier or vice versa.  Gross.

We’ve also heard that during the rainy season, you have to leave your drawers and closets open so mold and fungus doesn’t grow on your clothes and especially in leather shoes.  Ah, the tropics!  It ain’t all glamor.