Accidental Double Date Weekend

On Sunday Eric decided he wanted to go for a drive.  Not really something we ever did in Raleigh, but we’ve been so happy to have our little Yaris after 8 weeks or so of walking and metroing and taxi-ing that it’s been nice to get out a little further.  He let me choose the destination, so I picked Ancon Hill (Cerro Ancon), which is the hill with the Panamanian flag on it that we can see from our living room window when we look towards the Canal.

The view of Ancon Hill from our window (on the left)

The view of Ancon Hill from our window (on the left) – you can kinda see the flag at the top to the left of the radio/cell towers.

The hill is 654 feet tall and overlooks the city.  It was under US jurisdiction until 1997 as part of the Canal Zone.  They say it’s not uncommon to see sloths, white-nosed coati (photo below), armadillos, tamarins (squirrel-sized monkey things), and deer on the hill.  I wanted to see a sloth.  We didn’t see anything.  They say orchids also grow on the hill, but it must not be the right season for that.

Anyway, my plan had been to drive as far as we were allowed up the hill because the path up is actually just a road.  However, we were stopped by a guard and told that it was too late in the day to drive up because it was dangerous for the folks who had walked to have cars flying around corners at twilight.  Understandable.  He told us it was a 15 minute walk to the top, which I doubted when I looked up at how far we had to go.  I wasn’t dressed for a hike – I was wearing a skirt, but hey, this was one of the dates I had planned in the book of dates that I made for Eric for Christmas, so why not, right?

 

After maybe 20 minutes at a brisk pace, we made it to the top – sorta – where we then proceeded to climb a ton of stairs to reach the real top…and from there there was a big hill up to see the Panamanian flag and another view.  Lots of levels.  Anyway, we had perfect timing.  We arrived just as the sun was setting.

We asked two police officers to take our picture with Casco Viejo in the background and didn’t realize until later that in the two photos we held opposite poses.  It made me giggle.

As we descended after taking all of the necessary photos, we heard an animal scurrying around through the trees.  The 8 year old little boy who was walking near us told me that it was probably a coati (or gato solo or…this thing has a million different names).  They look like this:

Pretty big for a rodent, huh?

Pretty big for a rodent, huh?

I wish we had seen it, but nope.  No luck.  We got to the bottom happy with our little outing, our unexpected little adventure.  Eric then made a great dinner using a new vegetable (to us) called a ñame.

You say potato, I say ñame.

You say potato, I say ñame.

It really is like a softer, mushier potato, kinda.  Maybe less starchy?  I’m not sure.  But when you peel it, there’s a kinda peachy-colored…um…skin maybe(?) underneath that is really pretty slimy.  You don’t have to take that part off I don’t think, but I did.  Then you get this really white color underneath that.  But if you let it sit for much time, it’ll turn peachy-brown, kinda like how apples turn brown if you let them sit after you peel or cut them.  Very interesting.  Eric boiled the pieces in chicken stock.  It was pretty good!  We ate it with hamburgers.  Yum.

The next day, so yesterday…last night I guess, we tried chayote for the first time.  It looks like a wrinkled green pepper on the outside:

Chayotes

But on the inside it’s solid, more like an avocado without a seed, but full of water.  Not juicy though.  Hard to explain.  Anyway, I cooked one of these with an onion and some fresh oregano that our Spanish teacher, Marianela, brought us yesterday, plus a little salt and pepper.  It really doesn’t have much taste on its own, but it picks up the taste of the foods around it.  Here’s what it looked like:

Chayote, onions, oregano

Chayote, onions, oregano

Chayote, onions, and steak

Chayote, onions, and steak

I’ve seen recipes for stuffed chayote, kinda like a stuffed pepper, with cheese, and also they often cut it into little cubes and mix it with hamburger meat and onions.  I can see that being pretty good.  My nutritionist (a series of visits mandated by my GI doc) has given me all kinds of do’s and don’ts, so we’re experimenting with new foods while trying to accommodate my new diet.  It’s interesting.  We’re learning a lot.

And while I’m on the topic of food, remember that typical Panamanian place where we kept going when Katie was here that was near our old apartment?  The one where the owner, Neli, was trying to set up the young Canadian guy with her daughter?  Well I finally took a picture of our dinner from there.  We still walk up there from time to time because it’s so good.

From Neli's

Oh!  So the managers of our building have hired people to paint the edges of our balconies, so we’ve had ropes hanging down the sides of the building for about two weeks now.  Since the place is all glass, you never know when you might have a guy hanging outside your window looking in and painting.  It’s pretty strange.  Plus, I can’t imagine doing that job!  I get dizzy just standing on our balcony sometimes.  Check this out:

No way would I do that.  I don’t think those ropes look very thick or strong, and it looks like he’s sitting on a scrap piece of plywood.  No thanks.

Today we had a new maid start working.  Her name is Miriam and she’s from Perú, but she worked in Italy for a while, so she speaks fluent Italian too.  She’s really nice and much less intimidating than Marta.  We’ll see how it goes.  I’m listening to my relaxing yoga type music and trying to be at ease with someone being in my house.  I need to be calm enough to get enough food and water in me to go to my second capoeira practice tonight.  And THEN…

WE’RE PICKING ADDIE UP FROM THE AIRPORT TONIGHT!  Please say a prayer for safe travel for her!  She should get in at 9:10 pm.  Our friend Jorge, the cab driver we met here last year, is taking us.  He has a friend at the airport who is going to help us with getting the paperwork done, so hopefully we can get her home safely tonight.  I’ll keep you updated.

The Yaris’s Debute

Big news.  Yesterday, we DROVE to the grocery store.  Yep, you heard me correctly.  We drove.  We gave not a single thought to how many liquids we put in our cart or how awkward something might be to carry back to the apartment because all we had to do was put it in the trunk and DRIVE back to the apartment!  We’re so fancy!  Amazing.  I even bought extras of things that we’re not going to use in the next two days.  It may be 5 days until I use some of the things that we bought!  Can’t tell you how exciting this is.

After that, it got even more exciting.  We strayed even further from the apartment.  We went all the way to the furthest island along the Amador Causeway, which is circled in red.  Our apartment is circled in green.  Our approximate route (on the way there, at least…I think…sorta) is in blue.

Our trip to Alberto's - an Italian restaurant on Isla Flamenco.

Our trip to Alberto’s – an Italian restaurant on Isla Flamenco.

For the record, yours truly drove.  It took about 35-40 minutes to get out there (one wrong turn and some traffic b/c of a big concert at the convention center) and 26 minutes to get back.  Silly for a 7 or 9 km drive.  But whatever.  I learned, first, that our tinted windows are heavily tinted.  I always thought that meant that it was hard for people to see in.  Um, evidently it makes it hard to see out too.  Especially when it’s already dark outside.  Tricky.

Eric was a patient and helpful navigator, even though I’m sure he had to be very nervous.  We didn’t know the roads, it was our first big outing with these crazy drivers, I was nervous, the tinted windows were driving me crazy, the streetlights aren’t great everywhere, the lane lines aren’t clearly marked in most places, and everyone seemed to know where they were going except us.  But we did it.  We conquered driving in Panamá.  It can be done.  I think it was important for me to do it first, for me not to relegate that responsibility to Eric immediately.  And even though he rolled his eyes a bit as he did it, he took a picture of his proud wife after I got us to the restaurant in one piece.

A Panamanian Driver!

We knew about this restaurant from our trip here last year; it was where we ate with the UNC alumna that I emailed out of the [Carolina] blue.  We walked along the waterfront for a moment, saw incredible yachts like this one:

That's a yacht of boat!

then had a nice meal in the open air, complete with Julie-approved people watching.  The star of the evening was this amazing get-up:

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Yes, folks, it’s a lacey black onesie of some sort.  I gotta say, the woman had confidence.  Panamanian women work what they’ve got with pride, and I like it.  The confidence, that is, not the onesie.  Don’t be crazy.

We took a different route home which took us through “an area,” as Eric put it.  I called it “the ghetto.”  Eric told me not to stop for anything, although I had trouble with that strong suggestion, as cars kept stopping ahead of me.  I asked him what he expected me to do and he responded “Ram them!”  I declined to do so, partially for fear of causing a gang riot of some sort.

He pulled up a map today and showed me that we were on the edge of Curundú, a place we never wanted to go.  The other side of the street, however, was no better.  Just another neighborhood that we had heard was no good.  It was really pretty scary when we took that turn between the two neighborhoods.  There were tons of people out, most actually in the street that we were driving along.  I don’t know exactly what I was afraid of, but I knew that I just wanted to get home.  Quickly.

We made it, and thanks to my parents, Apple TV, and some kind of crazy rig that my dad set up through FaceTime, I had a perfect seat for the UNC/Dook game.  I enjoyed some of it.  Winslow is dirty and kung-fu has no place in basketball.  Go Heels.  We’ll leave it at that.

My day ended with receiving photos of my sweet Laine on her first trip to Disney World.  She looks like she’s in heaven!  Can’t wait to hear all about it!

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Thus ends our second month in Panamá!  Come see us – time is flying by!

Carnival fireworks and our failed attempt to be festive

Sadly, I don’t have much to write about Carnival.  On Tuesday night, after hearing music for two nights, seeing people gather, watching fireworks, and seeing several stages from our apartment, we knew we had to walk down to check things out.  I was still really weak and not feeling well, but we decided to give it a try, and we would turn back if we had to.  So here’s a picture from our living room of the scene down the road.  We didn’t have all that far to walk, but it was far enough away that we couldn’t tell exactly what was going on.

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Of course as it got later, more people gathered, the lights came on, and the bands started to play.  Around 10:30 or so, we started walking.  The plan was to get near the crowd and the closest stage, take a few pictures, take a selfie to show that we were there, then walk back.  I really wasn’t feeling great, but when are we ever going to have this chance again?

Unfortunately, when we got close, we saw this:

There were two huge lines, one for women and one for men.  For the first time in the history of the world, the line for the women was shorter.  Much shorter.  As we got closer, we discovered it was because the police were patting EVERYONE down, but the men were really getting searched.  I almost blushed when I watched what the cops were doing to these guys.  There was definitely no room left for anyone to be sneaking anything in.  Eric said that it looked like they were pretty standard pat-downs, but if it had been a law school exam scenario, I would have plenty to write about.  Looked pretty intimate to me.

At that point, between how I felt, the lines, and the required intimacy with La Policía, we decided it was time to call it a night.  We took our required selfie:

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obviously not even taking time to see if it turned out well, and headed home.  The whole Carnival experience was not a complete loss, however.  We spent a lot of time both nights practicing taking night shots and photos of the fireworks.  We’re not experts yet, but I was especially happy with this one.  Eric understands the technical aspects of photography well enough to coach me, and sometimes we get lucky…

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It could’ve been clearer if we’d had a tripod, but I’m really happy with it.  I love the waves on the left side, the lights from the Cinta Costera (Coastal Beltway) and Casco Viejo (the Old City) on the top left, plus the stages and all the people on the right.  This represents our experience of Carnival this year, and it makes me happy.