Fútbol in the Rain and Living the Family Circus Cartoon

On Tuesday (11/17 – I’m a little behind in writing) we had big plans to go to the Panamá v. Costa Rica fútbol game.  Now, I don’t understand how any of this works, but apparently this was a World Cup 2018 qualifying game.  Seems kinda silly to me given that we’re a few years out still, but what do I know.  If you can explain it to me, I’m all ears.  Samba?  Little David?  Eh, they’re not reading this, but I’ll give them a call.

So Mono was all excited and ready to start pre-gaming at 3 pm, but we had to wait until everyone got off work at 5.  Unfortunately, by that time, traffic was horrendous.  The worst I’ve ever seen it.  We manage to avoid traffic most of the time because we don’t have to drive to work.  Additionally, it had been pouring rain, so it was worse than usual.  Oh, and Mono’s car broke down earlier that day, so we had to pick him and Lourdes up on the way.  Terrible timing for them because they were trying to prepare both for our batizado (hosting international guests, putting on a show, logistics for everyone for two weeks) and their wedding!  We set out at 5:20 pm and the game started at 8:30 pm.  Here’s a map of where we had to go.

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It took us about an hour to go from our house (the southern-most stop on the map) to the next point up which is just about a km away.  Awful.  Poor Eric drove for a total of 3 hours before we got to the game.  We got there maybe 10 minutes before halftime.  Crazy!

I was planning on making this a more detailed story, but so much has happened since then, I’m feeling a little too overwhelmed to remember all the details!  The talking points of the night are as follows:

  • It continued to rain all night, but we had a blast anyway
  • TONS of Ticos (Costa Ricans) were there, and they were perfectly positioned in the upper deck so they could throw beer at us.  Fútbol fans make sense to me.  They love their teams with a fiery passion, and they aren’t quite sure how to act when things don’t go their way.  Does this remind anyone else of Carolina Basketball?  I think that’s why I felt such a strong urge to cheer hard for Panamá and why I took it a little personally when…
  • We lost.  2-1.  I have to say though, it was an incredible moment when we scored!  There’s nothing like it.  Sheer joy bursting out of 14,000 of your (at the moment) closest allies, everyone chanting, jumping up and down, throwing things, beer raining down from the Ticos above…it was awesome.

The next day, I lived out the quintessential Family Circus cartoon.

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I had offered the night before to help Mono run some errands for the batizado and the wedding since he didn’t have his car.  I was a little surprised though, when Lourdes texted me several times at 8:30 am.  As it turns out, Mono locked out of the house.  Across town.  And Lourdes had the keys at work.  So, I jumped up and, without showering or anything, left the house…not to return again until 4 pm.  Of course, I didn’t know that at the time.  Here’s what my/our route looked like throughout the day:

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I got to Lourdes’s work and found out the plans had changed.  She asked me to go further across town to a place called El Dorado so I could pick up their birth certificates and certificado de solteria (certificate of singleness – a required document to get married in Panamá apparently).  I was prepared for this to take approximately…forever.  Luckily, God decided to smile down on me in the little oficina del Tribunal Electoral that morning.  I was in and out in about 4 minutes…and I was absolutely sure that meant that something was wrong.  But I headed to Mono’s house (across a different part of town again – maybe a 20 min drive) at that point to pick him up, and he assured me that everything was in order.

From there, Mono drove.  Thank goodness.  We went from way up at the red pin on the map above (near Panamá Viejo) down to Avenida Central, right next to Casco Viejo for those of you who have visited…the furthest point south on the map.  We searched for t-shirts for the batizado in a few stores, found nothing, and decided to head back up to El Dorado (NWish part of the map – where I had picked up the birth certificates) for lunch and another tshirt shop.  We managed to get 40 tshirts, hopefully in the right sizes for everyone, and poor Mono insisted on carrying them to the car even though his back was still not in good shape.  Chivalrous to a fault, that one.

Once we got back to the car, our car alarm let me know that it had been a whole month or so since I had put fresh batteries in the clicker by proceeding to go off for a good 7 minutes.  Somehow Mono beat it into submission and we got the engine started.  We headed back to Lourdes’s work after that, I think, and that’s where I left him.

Long day with lots of driving and erranding, but I was grateful for the one-on-one time with my teacher and friend.

The next night, I had the privilege of seeing Los Monólogos de la Vagina with my energetic and adorable 19 year old friend Lucero.  It was a real treat to go with her for a million reasons:  she’s been a great friend to me and had the patience of a saint when I couldn’t understand her accent back when she moved here 6 months ago, she was really interested in seeing the show whereas Eric has NO desire to go with me…go figure, we hadn’t spent much one-on-one time together, and we’ve had some great conversations about sensitive topics in the past.

I wish I had written a whole post on the show that night.  It was incredible.  I wasn’t expecting for so much to have been changed to specifically speak to a Panamanian audience.  It’s not just that the names of Panamanian cities were thrown in, but rather that entire portions of the show were rewritten to take into consideration the importance of language.  One monologue, for example, essentially talks about reclaiming vulgar words for the female genitalia.  Of course, this whole portion of the show is dependent upon the audience’s use and understanding of particular words, and it was beautifully rewritten.  A variety of Panamanian accents were also used throughout the show for different characters – street slang, yeye (uppity rich people accent), and folks from the Interior, the Panamanian version of rednecks.

Overall, the show was very good, very funny, and very poignant.  Loved it.

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Fiestas Patrias

Happy Separation Day!

The month of November in Panamá is packed full of patriotic holidays.  The 3rd celebrates Panamá’s separation from Colombia, 4th is Flag Day, 10th is for celebrating the first cry of independence from Spain, and the 28th celebrates Panamá’s independence from Spain.  Basically, 2015 is over because everyone is on vacation from now until after Christmas.  Woohoo!

I’m not sure what was going on yesterday, but for some reason the whole alcohol section of the grocery store was covered with Caution tape and there were signs up citing some law saying you couldn’t buy alcohol on November 2nd.  Haven’t figured that one out yet.

Last night we saw that the big road in front of our apartment was shutting down, and it turns out there was a little parade!  We walked down to check it out, and I’m glad we did.  It was all (well, hopefully not all, but whatever) the city’s firefighters (bomberos) and a good number of cops too.  Pretty cool.  I don’t know how to describe it, but you know how you always feel a sense of quiet awe and respect for what those folks do whenever there’s an event honoring them?  It was like that.  Meanwhile, Eric was commenting that only one guy was good at his job b/c his torch was out while everyone else was carrying fire around.  Apparently we were on different pages.  Haha.

We woke up at 5 am to the sound of…what else would it be in this country…fireworks!  It was quite an amazing show too!  One of the most well-coordinated (the best coordinated?  I’m not sure how to say that.) that we’ve seen, and it lasted forever!  Apparently they just could not stand to wait to start celebrating las fiestas patrias.  I decided that they were probably wanting to be the first to wish my brother-in-law, Drew, a happy birthday, so I took a picture and sent it to him.  Happy Birthday from Panamá, Drew!  They’re throwing a huge party for you!

This morning the streets are closed again for another parade.  As with other holidays, like Carnival, a ton of people have left the city.  It’s kinda nice, actually.  Everyone else gets their vacation out of town, and we get a nice quiet stay-cation.

Tomorrow we’re making Eastern style NC BBQ for way too many people…speaking of quiet stay-cations.  Mono and I have been talking about doing this for months now, and we finally decided that Flag Day would be a good day.  Great, I thought.  Just Mono and Lourdes and maybe their two girls…nice relaxing day.  That is, until Mono announced at practice on Saturday that I would be hosting a BBQ and having everyone over!  This is the second time he’s done this!  Sigh.  Oh well.  I know it’ll be fun…we just have to find a big enough pot to make gallons of Brunswick Stew!

Eric’s parents are getting into town tomorrow night!  We’re very excited to be hosting them.  They’ll only be here for a short time, but I think we’ve come up with a pretty good schedule that will allow them to see some sights and also relax in the mountains for a couple of nights.

Oh!  On Saturday we had capoeira practice at the Canal Administration building, which is really impressive.  I know my mom is rolling her eyes right now b/c she wanted to check it out when they were here in March/April.  I thought it sounded super boring.  Oops.  Anyway, not many of us were there, but we had a great practice and a fun, relaxed roda.  Mono has a GoPro that he takes everywhere, so he got some cool shots…

The Shining

Matty’s Visit – Part II

After our little outing to the soccer game and to the discoteca/bar afterwards, I chatted with some folks at capoeira practice about the game.  I mentioned that we went out nearby afterwards, and since the stadium is not in the most savory area in town, they wanted to know where we had gone.  When I told them the place was called La Birra, they were all shocked!  Apparently the place is infamous…for what exactly, I’m not sure, but they were surprised that we (read: Matty) had made such a splash at this place.  I was proud.

Matty and Eric were happy to spend most of Saturday watching college football, courtesy of some kind of Roku magic.  That night, we decided to finally check out Trump Tower.  I know, I know, a rather political decision in this day and age, but really, it’s a big famous building here and we hadn’t seen it, so it was time to check it out.  Unfortunately for Matty, who again is from Texas, the nice restaurant in the building is called Tejas.  Oops, sorry Matty.  Luckily for him though, it’s not a Tex-Mex place.  It actually doesn’t even have a stereotypical Texas theme.  Not a single horseshoe in sight.  NO idea why they named it that.  Decent food.  Not fabulous, but decent.

Tejas, Trump Tower

Next, we met up with our friend Moisés at a bar in the same building.  You may remember Moi as the first guy to invite me into the roda at my first capoeira practice.  Sadly, for many reasons that I don’t fully understand, he left our group about 6 weeks ago, and I don’t think there’s much luck that we’ll convince him to come back.  Very sad.

Anyway, I think we were the only patrons at Tejas even though it was a Saturday, so we moved on pretty quickly.  We met up with Moi’s friends at a pretty happenin’ (obvs I’m down with today’s lingo) place called Altabar.  Super trendy.  Moi’s friends had ordered bottle service and were very nice to share with us, but none of the three of us were really up for dancing and even Moi didn’t seem super enthused about the placed, so Matt and Eric and I excused ourselves after an hour or so.

Trump Tower

Moí! My long lost friend. Some drama within the capoeira group caused him to leave us, so Eric, Matt, and I invited him out with us for a drink to celebrate his bday at Trump Tower.

Matty wanted to hit up one of the beaches nearby, so after some searching on airbnb.com we found a place on a beach called María Chiquita for a good price.  It had a huge pool, a beautiful beach, and a restaurant on the hotel grounds…an added benefit since there weren’t any real restaurants for at least 30 minutes from the hotel.  We were excited.  The owners live in the City, and when we met them to get the key, they offered to let us get there early and stay late, essentially giving us a whole extra day on the beach.  Plus, I recognized their Brazilian accent and got to use the very few Portuguese words that I knew that weren’t the names of capoeira moves.

So…we drove the 90 minutes to the beach, basically going from the Pacific to the Atlantic at Colón, then taking a right turn and heading up the coast about another 30 min.  We drove down a dirt road through a small town for maybe 7 minutes, then came to a gate in the middle of nowhere.  From there we could see the three towers of the hotel building.  It was a little surprising when the guards at the gate didn’t need to check a list for our name or anything, but whatever…we were there.

As we drove up – in the rain, I forgot to mention…great way to start a 36 hour beach trip – we noticed that the place was a little desolate.  Okay, a lot desolate.  A huge place with 3 towers, 10 stories each, and there were only 4 cars parked there?!  Hmm.  Definitely creepy.

Turns out we were the ONLY guests in the entire place.  The ONLY ones.  JUST us.  It was the weirdest thing ever to walk around this giant building and not hear or see anyone.  We kept saying it felt like we were in The Shining.  I half expected to see a creepy pair of twins in the hallway.

So besides that weirdness, it was raining.  All day.  Not normal Panamá 30-minutes-of-downpour-then-it’s-over kinda rain, but a steady NC dreary all day don’t-go-to-the-beach-today rain.  Ugh.  So there we were, stuck in our creepy hotel in the middle of nowhere, all laying on the bed watching a movie and napping and praying the rain would let up for a minute.

We eventually decided to just go down to the pool and make the most of it.  I chatted with the lonely bartender outside who was only there for us while the boys scouted out the beach, then they went for a swim.  Too cold for me.  Nice pool though!  We had fun with the glass side, as you can see from the pictures.

Long story short, we ended up not staying the night due to weather, lack of open restaurants nearby and lack of enthusiasm for the creepy feel of huge empty buildings.  Thanks for showing Matty the best of what you have to offer, Panamá.